Snow Snow Snow!

Last Sunday concluded our 8th AIARE Avalanche Course of the season. Back to back snowstorms brought almost 2 feet to Hermit Lake, which set the field for another excellent avalanche course as 7 participants acquired some new skills to help them travel more safely in the backcountry.

Conditions required very careful routefinding
Skinning up the Little Headwall
Top of Little Headwall
Just before entering the floor of the ravine
Spreading out to cross the main runout
Making some snowpack observations on a small slope down and left of Left Gully
Getting some nice turns on the Little Headwall at the end of the day

Only 4 more courses left this season, and the next one is booked solid. Go to http://www.emsclimb.com/aiare1.html to see course details or call 800-310-4504 to book.

Finally it snowed!

10+ inches of snow graced us for our 7th Avalanche Course this season. Hermit Lake picked up 13 inches and the conditions were ripe for an avalanche course.  Seven aspirant backcountry travelers joined us for a few days of snow study and risk management discussion.

Day 3’s morning trip planning session
Snow stuck to the trees on the Tuckerman Ravine Trail
Very large crown line visible from Sluice to Chute
Reassessing at Hermit Lake
Conditions for the day
Hillman’s Highway was a bit blustery
Skinning up to Little Headwall
Little Headwall where we conducted some snowpack tests

Other than seeing the obvious recent avalanche activity in the bowl and the cornicing near Hillmans we got some pretty positive results on the Little Headwall while conducting some snowpack tests. CTV Q1 on a 15cm soft wind slab followed by consistent CTM Q2’s 55cm down on a crust. We got a Rutschblock score of RB4 MB on the 55cm layer. This all matched up pretty well to the info we had gathered from the bulletin and the current weather observations we were making.

The turns down the Sherbi were the best of the season so far. Great powder skiing and fun fun fun! Still a couple course left this season. If you’ve been thinking about it, well, now is a great time to sign up!

AIARE Level 2: Analyzing Snow Stability And Avalanche Hazard

An EMS Climbing Guide, an Alaskan Heli-Ski Guide, an outdoor educator from PA, two other backcountry travelers joined us for the first and only Level 2 Avalanche Course of the season.

The level 2 course is a 4-day program that provides backcountry leaders the opportunity to advance their avalanche knowledge and decision making skills. This course also includes the introductory and prerequisite components for the professional progression: the level 3 certificate.

We started the course at the AMC Highland Center in Crawford Notch. After reviewing the knowledge from the Level 1 Course we spent the afternoon upgrading our companion rescue skills to handle multiple and deep burials with a close look at rescue leadership.

The next day after some morning classroom which looked closely at the process of snow formation and metamorphism we jumped on the summit Quad lift at Wildcat and explored the snow pack right off the 4,400 feet summit with a detailed snow profile.

Measuring temperature gradient
Getting a run at the end of Day 2
Day 3- Ski tour to Gulf of Slides
Skinning up into Main Gully
Main Gully
EMS Climbing Guide Mike Lackman kicking steps up Main Gully
Higher up in the gully
Some snowpack observations near the drop in point
Mike recording findings
At the end of the day we practiced proper probing since a nearby party was locked out of their car
Day 4 brought us up to familiar Tuckerman Ravine
The group discusses the changing conditions
Skinning up to Right Gully
Craig Taylor, another AIARE Instructor, holds a level 1 course nearby
Digging in
Some consistent CTH, Q2 results 40cm down on a thin layer of faceting d/f's
Last run of the course
Our classroom

6 more avalanche courses scheduled as long as the snow holds! http://www.emsclimb.com/aiare1.html

5th Avalanche Course of the Season

A couple hours ago we concluded another Level 1 Avalanche Course. You’d think there wouldn’t be much difference between one course and the next, but you’d be very wrong. Each weekend this winter has presented different and interesting weather and snowpack characteristics to consider when traveling in the backcountry. 2 days before the course while on a personal ice climbing day I came across a few cool snowpack related conditions. The first, was this “surface hoar” which was on the eastern side of Mt. Willard:

Surface Hoar

Then as we rounded the corner to a more southerly exposure we came across some “pinwheels”, indicators of strong solar radiation effecting the slope, often a warning sign of wet loose snow avalanches:

Pinwheels
Pinwheels close up
Sandy re-named them “giant snow donuts”

After a couple days conditions in the area changed dramatically. Arctic air rushed in for the COLDEST day of the season, which happened to be our field day.

How about them numbers?

We still managed a pretty good field day getting up to Hillman’s Highway, checking out some fresh debris at the bend in the gully, the rockslide from Irene, and some layers down below in the sheltered lee area of the runout.

The 5th Class
Chatting with the snow ranger reminded me of March of the Penguins
Rockslide from Hurricane Irene
Looking up Hillman’s Highway

That was it for pictures. With the mercury at about -9 Farenheit and a -30 windchill we didn’t spend too much time in any one place. We did see some cool layers in a 1.5 meter pit just below this last photo. And the fresh debris, slightly visible in the above photo was a nice bonus. All in all it was a good field day given the weather stress, and I’m hoping to see the four of you out in the mountains again. Now to get ready for the Level 2 Course starting on Friday!

4th Avalanche Course of the Season

Another weekend, another avalanche course, but not the same conditions as the last course! Shallow snowpacks and prolonged cold led to some “Continental” type conditions during our Observational Outing on Day 2, and a blue bird day on our Ski Tour on Day 3 yielded a deep faceting snowpack with a lot of fellow backcountry travelers to watch and learn from.

Bluebird day in the ravine
Ho Jo’s porch
USFS Snow Ranger Jeff Lane discusses some of the current stability issues with the group
The Chute looks enticing
Recent wind loading was evident from the last weather event
Sluice and Right Gully seeing a lot of traffic
Kicking steps up towards the Chute
John’s first backcountry day (on skis)
Changing fall line
Another avalanche course poking in the snow near right gully

We conducted a quick Hand Shear test before crossing under the Chute:

John isolating a column to conduct a Compression Test
Descending from the near the mouth of the Chute
Clouds move in as we depart

Great conditions right now to take an avalanche course, so check out this link for details:

http://www.emsclimb.com/aiare1.html

Avalanche Course

Winter has definitely arrived and the 4th avalanche course of the season concluded with a very interesting day in the Ravine. Light density snow from the higher summits has accumulated into pencil hard wind slab with varying thickness, all sitting on top of a thick melt-freeze crust from last week’s thaw.

Morning Trip Planning Session
Trailhead Beacon Function Check
Updating our route options at Hermit Lake
Skinning up into the bowl
Kicking steps up to Right Gully
Checking the layering at about 4,400 feet
Another avalanche course heading to Left Gully
Wrapping up our observations

At the end of the day we got some nice turns in some fresh powder before taking the Sherburne trail back to Pinkham. Couple spots left for next weeks course! http://www.emsclimb.com/aiare1.html

Climbing with Martin

Last year Martin attempted Mount Washington with me, and we were turned back at Lion’s Head due to some very harsh weather. This year Martin returned, all the way from Denmark, to make another attempt. I had two days to climb with him so we started at Frankenstein for some ice climbing, and attacked Washington yesterday. We moved quickly and made the summit by 11:50am, my earliest guided summit yet! Visibility was pretty poor but careful use of route flags and solid map & compass skills kept us on track.

Frankenstein Trestle
The Trestle Slab
Trestle Slab
Standard Route
Approaching Standard Route
Looking up from inside the Standard Route Cave
Martin follows the first pitch
Rappelling from the cave
Breaking tree-line on the Lion’s Head Winter Route
A rare shot of the guide
Visibility worsened above Lion’s Head
These route wands were key to staying on route, I de-iced some and relocated others as we ascended...
Obligatory summit photo
On the descent
Clouds break just below Lion’s Head
Summit conditions that day...

Thanks for a fun two days Martin, hope to see you back again next winter for a new adventure!

3 Day Mountaineering Course

This past weekend was the first (and only) weekend of the winter that I was not scheduled to teach an avalanche course. Instead I had the great pleasure of taking father/son team Stephen and Randy out for their first few days of ice climbing and mountaineering. These two have already had a hoist of adventures from volunteering in Nepal to vacations in Thailand, I was glad to be part of their ongoing adventures. So glad I decided to break out the iMovie skillz for a 3 minute recap of their 3 days. Enjoy!