Avalanche Course

Yesterday concluded the last avalanche course of the season. Every course had interesting snow conditions to look at, engaged students, reasonable weather, and some pretty good skiing at the end of the day!

With 5 human triggered avalanches on Mount Washington in March alone, one which resulted if serious life threatening injuries, people are starting to realize there is a need for education before heading into the mountains. While I admire John Muir’s “Throw some doughnuts in a knapsack and hop over the backyard fence” sense of freedom, we owe it to our families and loved ones to put some thought into how much risk we are willing to take (and how to recognize when we are at risk) when traveling in the mountains.

The last class of 2011
Some morning classroom
Out on our "Observational Outing"
Identifying layers in the snowpack
Ridgetop winds indicating ongoing loading in the start zone...
A large crown from a recent natural avalanche spanned the bowl...
Discussing our route options...
Careful terrain selection up near Hillman's Highway
Crossing the runout one at a time (notice fresh debris)
Traversing the lower snowfields...
Making a quick weather observation...
Practice with Compression Tests and "Hand Hardness" scale

I want to thank everyone who attended an avalanche course with Eastern Mountain Sports Schools this season. I hope to see you out in the mountains applying your newly acquired skills soon!

While we have no more official AIARE courses scheduled for this season we are still running our Backcountry Ski courses which include some good basic “Avalanche Awareness” instruction. Check out http://www.emsski.com for details.

Mount Washington Winter Ascent

Yesterday, the LAST day of winter, I had the opportunity to take mother and son team, Amy and Will, on their first ascent of Mount Washington. These two had done some other adventurous stuff around the world; climbing in  the Gunks, back-country snowboarding in the San Juan’s, glacier travel in Alaska, sea kayaking, and more.

Given the crowds, ascending the traditional Lion’s Head Winter Route, and the snow conditions in the Ravine, we opted for the more alpine “Lobster Claw” gully to ascend the mountain. We were treated to bluebird skies, virtually no wind, and very reasonable temperatures (I was in a t-shirt most the day). We descended Lion’s Head after enjoying the summit, and through out the day every person we met on the mountain had the same thing to say. “How about this weather?”

Hitchcock Gully

Earlier this month I had the pleasure of introducing NYC brothers Chris and Greg to the joys of winter mountaineering. We had a blast climbing at Cathedral Ledge and Mt. Willard, so much so that I made a short iMovie video of the day:

2 Day Winter Mountaineering Course

Greg came back yesterday for more, and we geared up and returned to Mt. Willard. This time, for Hitchcock Gully. The day didn’t go completely perfect… Lunch? Missing. Ice axe? Dropped on lower Hitchcock (and recovered) Post-hole hell on the top out? Check!

Despite the small setbacks we had an amazing day! The ice was great (the de-thawed moss not so much), weather great, conversation great, and the post climb beer great.

Good to see you again Greg. Now get that speeding ticket taken care of and see you up here next time!

Level 1 AIARE Avalanche Course

Yesterday brought the conclusion of the 2nd to last Avalanche Course of the season. 6 aspiring mountaineers, skier’s, and climbers spent 3 days in North Conway and surrounding notches learning the basics of traveling in avalanche terrain and backcountry decision making.

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Our last course of the season is March 25th-27th, but it is already full. If you didn’t get into an avalanche course this season check out http://www.avalanche.org for some great online learning tools. And next October/November call us to book early! We’ve had two avalanche accidents on Mount Washington in the last two weeks, and neither of the victims had ever taken an avalanche course.

Knowledge is power, get educated, practice safe travel skills and terrain selection based on the conditions, and climb on!

Ice Climbing in the Rain

On March 7th a regular client came up for two days of climbing with Paul and I. We have a history of climbing in the rain and unfortunately this trip was no different. We got a pitch of climbing in on Standard Route at Frankenstein, but the camera did not get much use. We were able to spend some nice dry time in the cave going over different types of anchoring methods, belaying, v-thread’s, etc, so it was a productive day out!

The next day dawned clear and Chip made a successful summit climb of Mount Washington with Paul. Good to see you again Chip and statistically we are due for a nice dry day in the mountains soon!

Gulf of Slides Accident Report

Accident Report: Gulf of Slides, Mount Washington, New Hampshire

Date: March 1, 2011, Time: approximately 12:30 pm

Location: Gulf of Slides, about 1 mile south of Hermit Lake Shelters

Author: David Lottmann

Summary: One skier caught, carried, not injured.

Weather: Sunny, cold, NW winds 30-50mph

Just before the accident

Background Weather and Snow Conditions:

The Mount Washington Avalanche Center Advisory on March 1st, 2011 for nearby Tuckerman Ravine was “Considerable”. “At Hermit Lake we picked up 4.1″(10.5cm) with an average density of 16% and at the Harvard Cabin we found 4″(10cm) of fresh snow with a slightly higher density. New snow was blown in on winds that wrapped from the S through the W and eventually to the NWThis progression has allowed significant wind loading to take place on all aspects… The potential for human-triggered slides will remain especially high with forecasted temperatures that will only reach the single digits (F).”

The crown

The Party:

Andy (age 39) has been backcountry skiing for one year, has EMT training, and has taken a level 1 Avalanche Course. Rog (age 38) has “close to 20 years BC experience and hundreds and hundreds of up high days east and west, 30-50+ days a season for the past 2 decades, 30 so far this season, mostly higher danger days” and has not taken an avalanche course.

The Accident:

After obtaining the avalanche bulletin for the day they decided to ski into the Gulf of Slides. They gained the ridge near Slide Peak by skinning through treed areas. The first line they skied one-at-a-time and reported “consolidated snow and no ‘whumping’ noticed”.

Having not observed any signs of instability they skinned back up for the “big ride”, “a run that I’ve skied hundreds of times in all conditions. It too can be safely skied with careful route finding.” The pair decided on skiing the length of the run one-at-a-time so only one skier would be exposed to at a time, and if Rog “felt anything odd” that he’d “pull off to skiers left where there is this ridge/nub type thingy that I’ve often used as an island of safety, and if I did that, that I would then proceed with a new plan.”

Andy: “Rog dropped in, first turns looked good – similar to our previous run. Then he headed left to a ridge knob. As he was stopping, I saw the snow give way right around him. It looked pretty localized the first instant. I was about to yell “avalanche” when what appeared to be most of the hill started sliding from maybe 15 ft above him. Then nothing but a cloud of snow – no sound, nothing.

Rog: “So I ski in and all felt good on the wind buff, and then I got to a softer than I expected slab that felt awesome to ski, but too awesome to be safe. All of a sudden, shooting cracks leave in both directions from me so I cut hard left to the nub thinking I was out of it. I then look up and say to myself, “Oh $hit, I’m no where near out of it. I then ducked down a bit, grabbed a little tree and took the wall of snow and all of it’s force on my side. Boom!”

“Down I go under the snow, flipping, flailing, free falling over a rollover. I’m pretty calm thinking, “well twas just a matter of time I guess, time to stay alive”. The whole time I’m spitting out snow, getting a breath when finally my ski pops off allowing me to kick and swim. Well luckily I swam to the top and popped out half way down the runout zone.”

Andy: “I said “Oh, sh!t!” and mumbled something resembling a prayer. I couldn’t see below the knob, so I had no idea for a “point last seen” to begin the search. As the snow was settling, I ran through the basics that I could remember from my avy class – scene safety, switch beacon mode, look for gear poking out of the debris. When all appeared clear and stable (most everything below me slid, so I assumed it was good) I skied down to and over the crown line.”

“When I got down below the knob, to my amazed relief I saw Rog standing way down hill. I skied right to him and did the best assessment I could muster from my decade old EMT training: Standing and talking, so airway, breathing and circulation are good. Knows what day it is, so brain still functioning. Quick check of limbs, all working. Pupils equal and normal, hopefully no head trauma. I’m sure there was more that I should have / could have done, but overall he seemed fine. Had him sit down while I went searching for gear. One pole was down a bit and stood right out, one ski partially buried way up took longer to find.”

Rog's position in the debris
Looking down the runout
Looking back up the path

When asked on an internet forum if any pits were dug during their trip Rog’s response was;

“Pits? Nope not up there. I have dug a pit or two over the years, but stuff is just so variable and our instabilities are mostly near the surface given our maritime type snowpack. I use pole probing mostly because I can feel out a lot of snow quickly over a large area. Not too tough to get a sense of layering once you get a feel for it. Many of the areas on monday were fairly well consolidated from wind and I banked on that a bit too much on the big ride run.”

Other observations:

Rog: “Number 1 had gone huge (naturally) in the previous 12 hours or so and had what appeared to be, new slab. the crown line was very visible and is the reason we stayed away from it and all of the other gullies and sub gullies… the snowfields “generally” allow for more safe traveling opt.

Gully 1 recently ran naturally, top left of photo shoes the skier triggered slide

The avalanche:

“It seems that the fracture line ranged between 1 and 3 feet deep and propagated about 400′ across the slope.” – next day’s Avalanche Bulletin. The start zone was estimated at 34 degrees and is east facing. The estimated size of the slide is D2, R3.

2 Day Winter Mountaineering Course

I had the pleasure of taking brother’s Chris and Greg on their first few climbs as they quickly discovered their new passion for ice climbing and mountaineering. We started the first day at the North End of Cathedral Ledge, working on the basics of crampon and ice ax use, belaying, rappelling, and more. On day 2 we headed up to Mt. Willard in Crawford Notch, and climbed the classic 700 foot “Cinema Gully”. After rappelling part way down Hitchcock Gully we were treated to a great 600 foot glissade back to the train tracks. These guys were soaking up the experience, and I look forward to climbing with them again!

Avalanche Course 2-25 thru 2-27

This winter’s avalanche courses have been excellent as we seem to get some new snow the day before every course! This past weekend’s course was no exception, with over 8 inches landing in North Conway, and much more up on the mountain!

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Only two more courses scheduled this season!

http://www.emsclimb.com/aiare1.html

Ice Climbing 201 Course

Headed out to Willey’s Slide in Crawford Notch today with Julie, James, and Anthony for a day of multi-pitch ice climbing in a beautiful setting. With bluebird weather and comfortable temps we were amazed that we had the whole climb to ourselves. We started with some self arrest practice, then roped up for the lower section and moved to 5th class belaying when it got more technical. A couple full 200 foot rappels brought us back to the ground and a fun glissade rounded out the day.

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To find out more about this course go here:

http://www.emsclimb.com/ice/201.html

Level 1 AIARE Avalanche Course 2-18 to 2-20

Over President’s Day weekend we were able to have John Kascenska come over from Vermont to co-teach, allowing us to open enrollment to 12 students. We spent the 1st two days at the Highland Center in Crawford Notch with a mixture of classroom and field sessions. On a very chilly President’s Day we toured below Tuckerman Ravine, investigating the snow conditions around Hillman’s Highway and the Little Headwall. I wasn’t too trigger happy with the camera this go around, but here you go!

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One of our attendees was avid outdoorsman and blogger Phil Werner. Phil took close to 200 pics and some video during the course and will be writing a piece associated for the course soon. Check it out on http://www.sectionhiker.com!

Only two courses left this season that are not full! Get the details here:

http://www.emsclimb.com/aiare1.html