This Fall La Sportiva asked me if I would be interested in reviewing the La Sportiva Trango Cube GTX Mountaineering Boots in their new “Highlander” color from a hunter’s perspective. Since I have very limited experience hunting I enlisted my good friend Alec to help review a pair. Alec has been getting out almost every weekend since the hunting season started.
La Sportiva Trango Cube GTX Mountaineering Boot Review
Alex finding some signs of the buck he’s pursuing this season while the La Sportiva Trango Cube GTX Mountaineering Boots keep his feet warm & dry
How we tested:
The boots were tested pheasant hunting in high grass fields in early season, deer hunting from late October through late November with the season continuing until December 4th . For deer season, I have hunted in the White Mountains of NH and Colebrook, NH. We have yet to have had much snow in the lower elevations of the Whites yet, but there was snow in Colebrook and that was where I found the boots to be a little cold. In the White Mountains, I have been in rolling, rocky, steeper terrain. I have never felt like the terrain was too much or for the boot. The rubber of the sole maintained traction in all of the conditions that I found myself in. With two more weekend left in the season, I look forward to use them until the end.
La Sportiva Trango Cube GTX Mountaineering Boot Review
Durability
So far there have been no issues with durability. The boots show no sign of wear and tear. The Thermo-Tech Injection™ TPU lacing system seems to provide a nice protective layer over the fabric. The only reason that I have reserved a rating of 10 is because I am still interested to see how the PU eyelets hold up over time.
Weight
At only 26.2 ounces (size 45.5), this boot is very light. Manufacturer weight for a size 42 is only 24 ounces. The heaviest aspect of this boot is the sole, but the balance is very comfortable.
Comfort
La Sportiva as a brand tends to run on the narrower side, but these boots run wider. As someone with a wider forefoot, having this extra width makes a big difference for my comfort. I have been wearing the boots with the tongue inserts in, but with it getting colder will be taking them out to allow for thicker socks. This boot is designed for a narrow to medium with foot, but the removable tongue allows for different volumes. The flex allows for great comfort while walking.
Features
The removable tongue is a great feature. The polymer shrouding over the upper makes for great durability. The stiff sole makes for great traction in varying terrain. Unlike some hiking boots, the laces are a perfect length so they do not drag or get caught on underbrush.
The Good
Light weight, soft upper, nice flexion in the ankle, stiff sole with nice rocker, highly waterproof, the tongue design (materials and removable insert).
The Bad
A little light on insulation, a little low in the upper, a little narrow if you have a really wide foot.
The Verdict
I am really enjoying this product especially for tracking, stalking and scouting. The rocker of the sole really makes up for how stiff it is in terms of moving quietly. With sitting for long periods of time, it is really nice to have the ability to flex my ankles to keep my feet from falling asleep. I have found with other boots that this has been a problem when taking a stand for a couple of hours. The ability to take out the tongue insert has been great for being able to vary the weight of socks that I’m wearing depending on conditions. The boot is fantastic for early to mid season hunting. The one place that it has fallen a little short is the lack of insulation. Sitting for three hours on a snowy day, my feet did get a bit cold. Once I got moving, everything warmed right up, but I am interested to continue to experiment with different sock combinations and how tight the boot is as the season goes on.
Overall, I am very happy with this boot and would highly recommend it especially if you are looking for something to lead you up to the part of the season where a heavier insulated boot is needed. -Alec F.
So there you have it! Sounds like a high end hunting boot to me and I might need to invest in a whole new hobby. If you want to pick a pair up you’ll probably find the best price on Amazon here. Thank you Alec for getting some feedback on these for La Sportiva and my readers!
See you in the mountains!
-Northeast Alpine Start
Disclaimer: La Sportiva supplied Northeast Alpine Start with these boots for the purpose of review but that has in no way effected the opinion of our guest reviewer. Affiliate links in this post help support this website.
A couple months ago I got my hands on the iconic Patagonia Nano Puff® Hoody and I’ve come to discover why I often see climbers milling about both at the cliffs and at the local coffee shop in this well designed piece. The non-hooded version of this jacket won the Editors Choice Classic Award from Climbing Magazine. I prefer hoods on almost all my outdoor clothing so I was happy to review the hooded version. This jacket falls into the “light puffy” category. If you are looking for a full on winter belay jacket you can check out some “full puffy” models I am reviewing here.
Patagonia Men’s Nano Puff® Hoody- photo from Patagonia.com
So let’s break down what makes this piece an excellent addition to your outdoor wardrobe!
Insulation
The Patagonia Nano Puff® Hoody uses super light and compressible 60-g PrimaLoft® Gold ECO Insulation. “Gold” Primaloft is the highest level of synthetic insulation and of course being the environmentally conscious company Patagonia is known for they went with the ECO version of Gold which is 55% post-consumer recycled content. So you can feel warm and fuzzy while feeling warm and… ok that’s a bit too cheesy.
The “brick quilting” pattern is superior to other less expensive baffling methods and keeps the insulation in place preventing cold spots.
Shell/Lining
The Patagonia Nano Puff® Hoody uses 1.4-oz 22-denier 100% recycled polyester with a DWR (durable water repellent) finish. Well what does that mean? 1.4-oz 22-denier feels like silk!
Brick Quilting Pattern = no cold spots
This isn’t a cheap nylon taffeta but a very abrasion resistant and pack-able material. It is quite comfortable over bare skin which is good since I broke this out repeated this Fall to wear directly over a t-shirt.
Weight/Compress-ability
12.8 oz. / 362 grams. Ultralight weight and super compressible, this is undoubtedly where the jacket go its namesake. Nano in this sense means extremely small. The Patagonia Nano Puff® Hoody easily stuffs into its own internal chest pocket which measures about 8 x 7 x 4 inches.
A lot of warmth in a small little package
A carabiner sewn loop allows you to clip this off to the back of your harness if you are leaving your pack on the ground and the top of the pitch looks a little bit more breezy than the base of the route.
Sizing/Fit
I found the sizing to be spot on. I went with a large which fits my 42 inch chest with a little extra space for a soft-shell and base-layers but not too baggy to throw on over a t-shirt. The hood is sized to fit under your helmet but I found it would fit over as well, but a bit snug.
A blustery day rock climbing this Fall near Gorham, NH
Probably more comfortable, and warmer, to wear this hood under your helmet unlike traditional belay jackets with over-sized hoods.
Features
Rounding out some of the features I haven’t mentioned yet:
Center-front zipper has wicking interior storm flap and zipper garage at chin for next-to-skin comfort
Two zippered handwarmer pockets have cleanly finished zipper garages
Under-the-helmet hood construction is light and simple
Drawcord-adjustable drop-tail hem seals in warmth
Summary
This is a super versatile layer that can serve many purposes.
It’s the perfect balance of warmth, weight, and pack-ability for climbing on the edge seasons.
Fall rock climbing is the best rock climbing in the Northeast and this jacket is ideal as your insulating layer all on its own. The DWR finish and warm-when-wet insulation adds protection should you leave the rain shell at home and get surprised by a later afternoon shower. After the leaves have fallen and the ice is starting to grow this becomes an excellent mid-layer, taking the place of heavier and less compress-able 200 weight fleece jackets. With quality long underwear, a soft shell, Patagonia Nano Puff® Hoody, and a hard-shell you have an adjustable system that can handle almost any winter conditions. I’ll still carry a heavier full on belay jacket when swapping leads ice climbing but for fast solo missions this is a perfect companion!
If you think you’d like this jacket you can find it at Backcountry. If you liked this review please leave a comment below and subscribe above!
See you in the mountains,
Northeast Alpine Start
Disclaimer: Patagonia provided this item for purposes of review. The opinions expressed above are my own. Affiliate links above help support this blog.
This winter I’ve acquired a number of high end synthetic insulated belay jackets to review. Getting field time to fully test all five of these models will take a little time so I decided to post a first look comparison of these industry leading models so those shopping for a new belay jacket for this season will have some info to look at before the ice climbing season really gets underway. Below I will share some technical comparisons within the various models and some impressions of each. Full reviews of each model will be posting throughout the season and I will back-link here as they publish.
First let’s define the category here. The common definition of “belay jacket” should look something like:
belay jack·et
bee-lay ˈjakət/
noun
1.
an outer garment extending to the hips with sleeves and a fastening down the front. An insulated hood and dimensions to fit over all other layers make a belay jacket stand apart from regular jackets. Also known as a “Puffy”.
I am going to limit this comparison to synthetic insulated options… apples to apples so to speak.
We will compare insulation, shell material, weight, fit, and features of each piece specifically trying to pull out how they differ from each other. Keep in mind this is not intended to be a full review of any of these jackets as that will need to wait until each has been sufficiently field tested. Here we go!
The LaSportiva Latok 2.0 uses Primaloft ECO Silver insulation. LaSportiva states they use “Body-mapped construction of 3 different weights of Primaloft used for thermal regulation”. I reached out to LaSportiva for more details and discovered they use 200 grams in the body, upper sleeves and shoulders have 133 grams, and lower sleeves have 80 grams.
Shell
10-Denier Ripstop (100% Nylon); Repeloff Nano Super DWR; Upper Body, Shoulders, and Sleeves: X2Weave-BR (85% Nylon, 15% Spandex); Repeloff Nano Super DWR
Weight/Compressability
29.3 oz. / 831 grams. This is the 2nd to heaviest model in the line up. It doesn’t feel very “crushable” for packing, and I’m assuming that may be due to the more cost effective Primaloft ECO insulation and regular (heavier) YKK zippers used throughout.
Fit
This model has the most snug fit of all the models I am testing. It’s a bit tight in the shoulders and the hood is just big enough to fit comfortably over my helmet.
Features
The jacket is black, not my first choice in belay jacket color. Bright colors have a physcological effect when waiting out a storm or your partner takes a decade to lead the next pitch while you slowly turn into a popsicle. It also has a microfleece lined adjustable hood that fits over my helmet, albeit a bit snug. Rounding out the feature list: 2 Front Hand Warmer Pockets with Invisible Zippers, 2 Napolean Chest Pockets with YKK Zippers, 1 Inner Binded Phone Pocket with Headphone Access Port (fits iPhone 6 but not 6 Plus), 2 Large Inner Mesh Pockets, Adjustable drawcord at hem
The Big Agnes Dunkley Hooded Belay Jacket uses 120g of Pinneco Core™ fill in the body and 80g in the sleeves. This “feels” warmer and puffier than the Primaloft ECO insulation used in the previous jacket and is 5 ounces lighter.
Shell
Big Agnes does not list much detail in relation to the shell fabric, just: “100% recycled polyester shell is wind-proof and water resistant”. I have reached out to Big Agnes for more info and will update this as soon as I hear back!
Weight/Compressability
24.5 oz. / 695 grams. The lightest option in our line up this piece easily stuffs into an included high quality 10 x 7 stuff-sack. Oddly the manufacturer’s website description references and interior chest pocket that doubles as a stuff sack but I believe this must be a web error as there is no interior chest pockets and the exterior chest pocket is far to small to function as a reversible stuff sack.
Fit
This model fits well over my typical load out. The adjustable hood is the perfect size for my helmeted head.
Features
Center front zipper includes interior no-draft flap and a zipper garage at chin
Features YKK Reverse coil zippers
Textured zipper pulls are easy to use with gloves
Adjustable drawcord at hem seals out wind
Two zippered hand-warmer pockets with zipper garages
Large interior mesh pockets for extra stash space
Exterior check pocket
Separate stuff sack included
120g Pinneco Core™ synthetic insulation in body, 80g in the sleeves
Insotect Tubic™ construction provides supreme loft and thermal efficiency
100% recycled polyester shell is wind-proof and water resistant
The Black Diamond Stance Belay Parka uses two layers of 80 gsm PrimaLoft® Silver Hi-Loft Insulation insulation (basically 160 gsm), a continuous filament insulation made with fibers of differing thicknesses. Primaloft calls this their loftiest insulation and it definitely feels up there with the best synthetic insulation currently available.
Shell
This piece uses Pertex® Classic 40d plain-weave with a DWR finish (65 gsm, 100% nylon). I’ve always found Pertex® to be a solid performer in the breathable water resistent category so I’m happy to see Black Diamond went with this for the shell material. Interestingly the liner also has a DWR finish to it which I suppose is one extra layer of protection, Pertex Microlight 20 d ripstop with DWR finish (40 gsm, 100% nylon)
Weight/Compressability
26 oz. / 730 grams. This is the 2nd lightest model in the line up and packs up to a similar size as the rest.
Fit
This model fits great over my typical load out and the hood is especially comfortable over my climbing helmet. It also feels an inch or two longer than the above models which feels like it will provide a little more heat retention.
Features
Adjustable, climbing-helmet-compatible hood
Lightweight stretch cuffs
Two-way front zipper
Insulated wind flap
Drawcord hem
Two zip hand pockets, zip chest pockets, two internal drop pockets and internal stretch media pocket (no internal port though and really small size)
The Outdoor Research Perch Belay Parka uses industry leading PrimaLoft® Gold 100% polyester insulation 200 g/m2 body, 160 g/m2 lower body and lower sleeves. This is the best performing synthetic insulation in the line up and Outdoor Research definitely stuffed this jacket with more of it than any of the other models being tested.
Shell
This piece uses Pertex® Endurance 2L, 100% nylon 20D melange body and Pertex® Microlight, 100% nylon 22D ripstop lining. This is the highest performing shell material in this line up (also used in next jacket).
Weight/Compressability
30.4 oz. / 860 grams. This is the heaviest model in the line up but is also most likely the warmest of the bunch. It also has a somewhat innovative internal stuff sack design I’ve never seen before. Basically a Velcro “hidden pocket” in the lower back inverts into a stuff sack. Final stuffed size is probably 20-30% larger than others in this line-up with the obvious trade off being more warmth.
Fit
This model fits great over my typical load out and the hood is especially comfortable over my climbing helmet. It also feels an inch or two longer than the first two models which feels like it will provide a little more heat retention.
*Disclaimer, when I asked Patagonia for a belay jacket for review they sent me the amazing down insulated Fitz Roy. Comparing down to synthetic belay jackets is like comparing apples to oranges when it comes to cost, weight, and compressability, so I am including the specs on the DAS even though I do not have one to fully review (yet)… the DAS should certainly be represented in this line up!
Insulation
The Patagonia DAS Parka uses 120-g PrimaLoft® Silver Insulation Hi-Loft and then adds a layer of 60-g PrimaLoft® Gold Insulation Eco in the chest, abdomen and back to offer maximum thermal efficiency and water repellency.
Shell
Like the Outdoor Research Perch Belay Jacket this one uses the lightweight, nylon ripstop Pertex® Endurance shell with PU coating. It is durable, water-resistant, windproof and treated with a DWR (durable water repellent) finish.
Weight/Compressability
23.6 oz. / 669 grams. This is the lightest model in the line up and hardest for me to fairly compare since I have not sourced one yet. Based on what I have researched I’ll say for the weight this one might be the warmest non-down belay jacket out there. However it saves weight by using a little less insulation. When compared side by side with the Outdoor Research Perch Belay jacket the numbers look like this:
Patagonia DAS vs Outdoor Research Perch
180gr/120gr vs 200gr/160gr
Mix of Primaloft Gold & Silver vs 100% Primaloft Gold
Fit
This model fits great over my typical load out and the hood is especially comfortable over my climbing helmet. It also feels an inch or two longer than the first two models which feels like it will provide a little more heat retention.
Features
Helmet-compatible hood with visor and single-pull drawcord to adjust overall volume and peripheral vision
Full-length 2-way zipper with internal, insulated wind flap and fold-over zipper garage for next-to-skin comfort
Pockets: two zippered, insulated handwarmers; two large interior mesh drop-ins; one exterior zippered chest
Elasticized cuffs and discreet drawcord at drop hem seal in warmth
Stuffsack included
Summary
These are all really nice offerings in the ever growing field of belay jackets. I look forward to getting some field time in each of them to pull out the minutia that sometimes helps one product edge out another. If you’d like to look for other consumer opinions on them or try one out yourself you can purchase directly off Amazon at these links, and doing so helps support this blog:
I hope this info helps you select the right belay jacket for the upcoming winter! If I missed your favorite model or you have any questions or comments please let me know below!
See you in the mountains,
Northeast Alpine Start
Disclaimer: All of the products listed above were provided at no cost for purposes of review. All opinions stated are my own. Affiliate links above help support this blog.
Continuing my 4 part series on winter gear prep today we will look at my clothing setup for ice climbing, mountaineering, and back-country skiing in the Northeast. If you missed Part 1, The Essentials, you can find it here.
Your winter clothing system has so much impact on your enjoyment of recreating during the colder months that you should spend some time trying to dial in a system that works best for you. There are so many companies producing high end clothing today then there was 20 years ago that it can seem daunting to wade through all the promotional advertising and hype that is out there. In this post I will share my current clothing recommendations gleamed from hundreds of days spent guiding on Mount Washington, well known for having some of the worst weather in the world. I hope you find something useful here.
Let’s start with base layers. This is essentially how I get dressed in the morning step by step (but I will spare you pictures of me doing so).
EXOFFICIO Men’s Give-N-Go Mesh Boxer Briefs, 6 in.
Boxer briefs are the way to go for cold weather performance. Supportive, quick drying, and a snug fit, these are much better than baggier synthetic boxers and wedgie inducing briefs. Boxer Briefs FTW!
A very affordable option for a quality undershirt, a couple of these allow me to climb many days in a row without having to wash my more expensive “next layers”.
I have a couple pairs of these. Polartec® Power Stretch® Pro™ is the softest most comfortable material I have found for this application. They are a little heavier than “medium weight” alternatives but since I prefer lightweight soft shell pants for most of my winter activities so they are perfect!
I have owned this item from EMS for at least 15 years. Again, Polartec® Power Stretch® is very soft and comfortable, and the fact that this has a full zip and a hood makes it super versatile in the snowy mountains!
Socks
Smartwool Mountaineer Socks
I have a mix of Smartwool and Darn Tough socks that I rotate through. When it is really cold out I always go with the Smartwool Mountaineering Socks. I haven’t found a warmer or longer lasting option! And side note I rarely wear sock liners anymore… quality socks don’t seem to require a liner in my opinion.
The above “base layer” rarely changes based on the sport. Ice climbing, mountaineering, back-country skiing, it’s all good! I will swap out to a dedicated ski sock for back-country skiing like the Bridgedale Control Fit II Ski Socks.
Bridgedale Men’s Control Fit II Socks
These above the calf socks excel when skinning many miles in touring boots!
Ok, we have our base-layers on. The next layer is usually super breathable, wind & water resistant “soft shell”. I’m not looking for “waterproof” at this point because I know going up 4000 feet in 4 miles creates a TON of heat and breath-ability is clutch!
The above articles of clothing are the most I wear on the “approach”. When you’re moving fast up hill they are sufficient for keeping me warm. Close at hand though is more protection for when conditions get really nasty, or we take a quick break and I need to don an insulating layer. Never deep in my pack is the Patagonia Nano Puff Hoody.
Patagonia Nano Puff Hoody
I am working on a full review of that piece and should have that finished in a few weeks.
My hard-shell jacket of choice depends on the sport. For back-country skiing the Patagonia Reconnaissance Jacket is top of the line.
Other than the essential “Belay Jacket” I’ve covered most of my current set-up. Since I have belay jackets from Outdoor Research, Ortovox, La Sportiva, and Black Diamond to demo I will save that one piece of clothing for another post. I also have a few back-country ski bibs to review this season so we will save ski bibs and belay jackets for another time. It’s late, and I have an alpine start planned for tomorrow. Hopefully the first day of ice climbing for my season!
I hope you found some of this useful. Feel free to ask for more details in the comment section or recommend your own favorite piece of outdoor clothing!
Part 1 was a modified list of “The Ten Essentials” and you can find that post here.
Part 3 will focus on ice climbing gear and maintenance.
Part 4 will cover ski gear and maintenance.
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INSTAGRAM Contest!
Show me your gear closet by posting a pic on Instagram with #mygearcloset and tagging me @nealpinestart before 11:59pm EST on 11/30/16. While you are there you can vote for entries as well (just like any that have been posted). On December 1st the gear closet Instagram pic with the most likes will win a brand new Petzl Summit Ice Axe!
Petzl Summit Ice Axe
See you in the mountains,
Northeast Alpine Start
Disclaimer: Some of the products above were purchased with my own money, some were provided for purpose of review. All of the opinions expressed are my own, and affiliate links above help support this blog.
While I am excited about all the products I’ll be testing this winter I am perhaps most stoked to put this duo together and get on some early season ice as soon as possible! I’m hoping I’ll get enough field days in to have a full review post for each by early-mid January. I realize though by then a lot of ice climbers may have already geared up and wanted to share my first impressions on these before the season arrives.
“A pinnacle of design for mountaineering, ice and mixed climbing, the Acrux AR is the lightest, most durable, and lowest profile insulated double boot available.”- Arcteryx.com
That is a strong statement, and it happens to be true. Let’s compare some of the other lightweight double boots on the market:
The obvious difference here between these and my Batura’s is that these have a removable liner.
ACRUX AR MOUNTAINEERING BOOT PREVIEWACRUX AR MOUNTAINEERING BOOT removable liner
These liners “feel high-tech” in hand. I wore them around the house and they feel like a comfy slipper designed for astronauts. From arcteryx.com:
“Arc’teryx Adaptive Fit technology uses a removable bootie that employs stretch textiles and minimal seams to create an instant custom fit with no pressure. With protection extended beyond the cuff of the boot and the highest level of breathability in this category, the bootie’s GORE-TEX® membrane optimizes climate control and waterproof benefit. The perforated PE foam’s quick dry properties improve comfort, and a rubberized sole allows the bootie to be used as a camp shoe.”
Arc’teryx partnered with Vibram® and created the AR outsole using Vibram® Mont rubber which keeps its frictional properties in sub-zero temps.
The Vibram® AR outersole uses Vibram® Mont rubber to perform well even in extreme cold
“The specially developed Vibram® AR outsole is designed for support and sure footedness. The tread and construction feature a semi-blocked toe, with anti-slip grooves, a medial climbing support zone, and heel created to provide braking on steep descents. The Vibram® Mont rubber compound maintains its performance in sub-zero conditions.”
I’ll share a promotional video on the boots and move onto the crampons I’ll be pairing with them this winter!
These are the most aggressive fully adaptable to any situation crampons I have seen. I used to love my older Petzl M10 crampons because I could swap out the front points for either dual, mono, or mono-offset. The Blade Runner’s do all that but CAMP also makes optional “snow points” so you can turn your vertical ice crampon into a multiple purpose mountaineering crampon. It really does make these incredibly versatile! My demo pair arrived set for offset mono and I plan to test them that way first with our thin early season ice conditions. Included with the crampons were two more vertical front points and semi-automatic toe bails allow for use on boots without rigid toe lugs.
Included extra parts
Fit
How well a crampon can attach to your boot is paramount. You want them to feel like they were designed for each other and no one else. Right out of the box the fit on the Acrteryx AR was quite good. There is plenty of adjust-ability to make it “perfect” starting with three possible toe bail positions, two possible heel lever bar positions, full vertical adjustment on the heel lever itself, and, something I haven’t seen before, the asymmetric bottom that more closely follows the contours of the boot outer-sole.
CAMP Cassin Blade Runner Crampons- a snug fitVertical heel lever adjustment
Obviously we can’t talk much about performance just yet but they are definitely a very aggressive crampon! One could argue this is a 19 point crampon (20 if set up in dual front-point mode). The design looks like it will excel on steep & cauliflower ice.
Cassin Blade Runner Crampons- aggressive, included anti-balling plates
The front points are made from Chromoly Steel and taper from 5mm down to 3mm. A “wear indicator” of sorts lets you know when it’s time to swap in new front points.
Think the Arcteryx Acrux AR boots might be good for you?
You can purchase them on Amazon here. Ordering through that link will help support this blog.
Stay tuned this winter for lots of gear reviews and giveaways! I’ll be raffling off brand new climbing harnesses, ice screws, carabiners, and more. Don’t miss a review or giveaway! Subscribe/Follow this blog at the top right so you get all the details!
The Petzl Sitta (pronounced SEE-Tah) is a stand-out harness in the very small and exclusive class of high-end technical harnesses. I bought my first top-of-the-line harness back in 1995 when I realized I was addicted to climbing. The Petzl Guru was a stand out at that time both for its notice-able rescue orange color and its high price point (it was double what most harnesses cost in the 90’s).
Despite the price tag I never regretted the purchase as it was really comfortable for the era and served me well for the start of my climbing career from Red Rocks to the Rockies and back East. Since I retired it around 2000 I’ve gone through a steady stream of harnesses, almost always Petzl; Adajama, Corax, Calidris, Sama, another Adajama, then a Hirundos (review), and now the Petzl Sitta.
Let’s take a close look at this technically advanced harness!
10.5 ounces (294 grams)
Weight:
Without question the first thing you will notice when holding this harness in hand is how unbelievably light it is. My size large weighs in at 10.5 ounces (or 294 grams) on my home digital scale. Manufacturer specifications indicate a size large is 300 grams (10.58 ounces), so I’d say the claimed weight is easily met! The only similar featured harnesses on the market in this category are the Arcteryx FL-365 which weighs in at 365 grams / 12.9 ounces (size not given) and the CAMP Air CR which weights in at 350 grams / 12.3 ounces (size medium).
That makes the Petzl Sitta the lightest full featured harness on the market designed with a broad spectrum of climbing disciplines in mind.
Pack-ability:
I’ve always preferred harnesses that pack up small. Since we usually don our helmets at the same time we put our harnesses on I’ve been in the practice of folding my harness up and storing it neatly inside my helmet like I show here in my Hirundos harness review:
Petzl Hirundos stored in Petzl Sirocco Helmet
I’ve started doing things a little differently with the Petzl Sitta. Like most harnesses the Sitta comes with a storage bag. With every harness I’ve ever owned I’ve tossed the storage bag or used it for something else; make-shift crampon pouch, random organizing stuff sack, etc. But the stuff sack that comes with the Sitta is a bit more utilitarian. First, it’s small:
About 6in x 4in x 4in
The harness packs up so small I find the space inside my helmet is too large to store the harness snugly, so I started using the stuff sack to store the harness in my pack. It’s small profile allows for more efficient packing when trying to maximize available space. After gearing up I started using the stuff sack as a mini-essentials kit since there is a conveniently sewn loop on the sack allowing you to clip it to the back of your harness if you are leaving your pack on the ground. I typically toss in some snacks, bug dope, small climbing knife, headlamp, phone & car keys!
Just the essentials
While this isn’t re-inventing the wheel I think most harness stuff sacks are too big to really hang off the back of your harness. This one isn’t and the quality of the stuff sack material and zipper instills confidence. In fact you can clip a small loop from the zipper and the carry handle with one carabiner, which adds some redundancy and keeps the zipper closed when scumming your way up a chimney!
Secure hang-ability
Comfort:
Reviewers all over the web have commented at length on how surprisingly comfortable this harness is and I’ll be echoing those sentiments. To quote Climbing.com’s review (which also granted Climbing’s Editor Choice Award to this harness):
“Lightweight harnesses aren’t supposed to be this comfortable”
I’ve worn the harness now for a little over two months and find it just as comfortable as the more padded Petzl Hirundos that I reviewed earlier this year. Petzl achieves a high degree of load distribution via their “WIREFRAME” construction. Spectra® strands are incorporated in the waist-belt and leg loops to aid with this. Basically Spectra® is a super strong static material. Because it does not stretch like regular nylon load distribution can be optimized with careful design. I would say this harness is as comfortable as any harness I have worn in the last 10 years! Another benefit of this high tech design is the harness is very breathable in hot humid weather and has a very sleek low profile when climbing with a larger backpack.
Waist-belt:
WIREFRAME ConstructionWaist belt tapers from 3 inches to 2 1/4 inches in the back
Elasticized fixed leg loops:
I’ve said it before that I prefer this style of stretchy leg loop. It offers excellent freedom of movement, less weight, and less bulk. I actually feel these shouldn’t be called “fixed” because they really are “auto-adjustable”. The stretchy adjustable part stretches up to 2.5 inches which is more than enough for me to add some long-underwear and soft-shell pants for this winters ice climbing season!
Auto Adjustable Buckle-less Leg Loops – My favorite!Leg loops 2 1/2 inches at widest
The reinforced tie-in points are made with high-tenacity polyethylene which resists fraying and wear from repeated rope movement at these high stress points. This really is a nice feature since I usually decide to retire my harness when I have notice-able “fray” in this area and this material will definitely slow any the harness “fuzz” development.
High-tenacity polyethylene for improved resistance to wear from rope friction
Rack-ability:
Here’s another area Petzl has really been innovative with! The Petzl Sitta has the traditional 4 gear loops but there are some important design considerations to take note of. First, the front gear loops are LARGE and RIGID! I can rack a standard rack easily on the right front gear loop. The rigid support facilitates clipping & un-clipping protection and quick-draws.
Right front large rigid gear loop with adjustable divider and soft rear gear loop for comfort while wearing a pack
The gear divider is interesting, it can be adjusted forward or back to give you some customization. I keep it in the middle and rack passive pro and small cams in front, and every thing bigger behind the divider. I’ve found having the divider is a really nice “blind reference” when reaching for gear without looking down. Need a .4 Black Diamond C4? Find the divider and it will be the carabiner right in front. Need a .5? Find the divider and it will be the carabiner just behind the divider.
Racked up with full double rack up to size 3 and all multi-pitch tools (along with that sweet Black Diamond Alpine Start Hoody hanging off the back!)
For ice climbing I plan on sliding the divider back since the Petzl Caritool slots are within the gear loop area. There is a spot for one Petzl Caritool on each side.
Fit:
Different but related to comfort, how a harness fits is quite personal. We are all shaped differently, so to help you choose the correct size lets start with the official size chart from Petzl:
References
C10AO S
C10AO M
C10AO L
Size
S
M
L
Color(s)
orange/white
orange/white
orange/white
Waist belt
67-77 cm
74-84 cm
81-92 cm
Leg loops
48-53 cm
52-57 cm
55-60 cm
Weight
240 g
270 g
300 g
You really should measure yourself accurately before you order, but for your convenience here’s a quick conversion of the waist sizes:
Small is for 26-30 inch waist.
Medium is for 29-33 inch waist.
Large is for 32-36 inch waist.
I have a 34 inch waist, and the large waist belt fits perfectly. My thigh, measured at it’s thickest part, is about 59 cm. I still have plenty of stretch in the leg loops to accommodate thicker ice climbing layers.
Fit
Usage:
The above features make this harness an excellent choice for a slew of climbing disciplines. I’ll briefly give a 1-10 rating with a short explanation based on the features for each discipline before jumping into a summary:
Gym Climbing 5/10– If all you need is a gym harness this is overkill. Get a cheaper harness.
Sport Climbing 9.5/10– I can’t think of what else a dedicated sport climber could want from a harness. This is an excellent pick for sport climbing!
Traditional Climbing 9.5/10– Again, this harness has everything I would want for multi-pitch trad climbing
Ice Climbing 8.5/10– I’m REALLY looking forward to this ice season but wish they added just one more Petzl Caritool slot, preferably under the back of the right rear gear loop
Mountaineering 8.5/10– A great choice if skis and glaciers are not involved!
Glaciers & Ski Mountaineering 7.5/10– Closed leg loops make this less than ideal for glacier travel and ski mountaineering, but it’s not the end of the world. Just wear your harness all day, with this one you will forget it’s on!
Bouldering 1/10– What are you thinking?
Summary:
It’s really hard to fairly compare this harness with what else is on the market.
Price-wise it is at the far upper end in the recreational category, but its incredible light-weight pack-ability and comfort can make it easy to justify the purchase. As mentioned near the beginning of the review only the Arcteryx FL-365 and CAMP Air CR come close and I’m hoping to get samples of those to review here soon. For now I’m eagerly awaiting the cooler temps and early season ice climbing. Perhaps I’m getting ahead of myself and should just enjoy the quickly approaching foliage climbing season, definitely my favorite time to rock climb in the White Mountains!
After finishing another Wilderness Navigation Course today for the Appalachian Mountain Club in Pinkham Notch I decided it was finally time I post a review on the one piece of equipment I have carried in the mountains for over two decades. My compass, the Sunnto MC-2.
The compass is the 2nd piece of equipment listed in the often referred to “Ten Essentials” and is a must for anyone heading to the mountains for a bit of adventure. A great gear list for hiking & backpacking can be found here on http://www.hikesafe.com
Since this piece of equipment is so important it’s wise to put a little thought into your choice. For the money, I have not found a more fully functional compass that can do as much as the Sunnto MC-2 anywhere, which is why I have happily replaced mine three times in the last 20 years when I misplaced (or loaned) it to someone and never got it back.
Without getting into the intricacies of accurate map & compass work I want to call out exactly what sets this compass apart in the field.
Sighting Mirror
Suunto MC-2 Compass Review
How important is a sighting mirror? Depending on the range to your target the sighting mirror can play a significant role in accurate bearing reading. It allows you to hold the compass at eye level and arms length and still read the information given on the dial/bezel. Two “sights” are present, a higher “gun notch” and a level gap below the mirror, so you have better accuracy based on relative elevation to your target. I find I can get a bearing 3-4 degrees more accurately with this style than a regular “base-plate” type compass. In my lectures I compare the accuracy of this style compass to a rifle aimed from the shoulder vs. a pistol fired from the hip. A sighting mirror is more accurate hands down. It also has the added benefit of being an excellent signal mirror for search and rescue aircraft and allows me to easily put my prescription contacts in on multi-day trips!
Extended Baseplate
Suunto MC-2 Review
While technically an off-shoot of the sighting mirror the fact that a fully opened Sunnto MC-2 can cover 7 inches across a map makes it really convenient for taking bearings and plotting location with known points (re-section & triangulation). These skills, when used with smaller base-plate compasses, often involve estimation, map folding, or the use of a straight edge to get an accurate reading. With the Sunnto MC-2 plotting on a map is simple.
Large clear dial
The orienteering lines are highly visible under the bezel/dial, making accurate measurement possible from any north-south lines on the map or along the edge of the map.
Clinometer
Suunto MC-2 Compass Review
A clinometer measures slope angle. This is extremely important for those travelling in avalanche terrain as a difference of 5 degrees of slope can often mean the difference between a slope being stable or unstable. Savvy mountain travelers in avalanche terrain are constantly checking slope angle, and to do so accurately one needs a clinometer. The Sunnto MC-2 has one built in that can function on the slope like the photo above, or in conjunction with the sighting mirror while looking up or down a slope.
The above photo of me measuring slope angle was coincidentally taken moments before a human triggered size-able avalanche caught 5 people on Mount Washington. One of the people caught is just disappearing out of the safer area we where at before the incident occurred. My write up of this incident is here.
Adjustable Declination
The Sunnto MC-2, like many top tier compasses, allows one to set the magnetic declination for the area of operation. I am not going to dive into a detailed conversation on declination in a gear review but simply put this is a solid feature for a vast majority of recreationalists and mountain professionals. There are many professionals out there that feel it is almost required. Since I teach courses to people with various pre-owned compasses my personal opinion is if one truly wants to understand solid map & compass work one needs to be able to navigate with an adjustable or non-adjustable compass. That being said, the fact it is an option on this compass is win-win, I just choose not to use it.
Magnifying glass
A small feature, but helpful none-the-less! This feature really helps when decoding small print & icons on a faded map!
1:24k and 1:62500 scales
The Sunnto MC-2 has two distance scales along the side calibrated to the two most popular USGS map scales. Combined with the included lanyard it should be quite easy to accurate estimate distances on your maps.
In case you want some manufacture specifications here they are:
High grade steel needle with jewel bearing
Balanced for northern hemisphere
Adjustable declination correction
Liquid filled capsule for stable operation
Mirror for sighting bearings and signaling
Sighting hole and notch for accurate bearings
Non-luminescent bezel
Clinometer
Luminescent markings for working in low light
Metric scales and inch ruler
Baseplate with magnifying lens
Detachable snap-lock lanyard with wristlock. Easy to detach for working with the map
Suunto limited lifetime warranty
Made in Finland
Summary:
There is little improvement to suggest on such a well crafted piece of outdoor gear. For global travel Suunto does offer a slightly more expensive global version but for anyone staying in the northern hemisphere you can pick this compass up at a great price on Backcountry right here. Using that link will help support this blog and earn you karma and increased karma means less chance of getting lost*.
I’m giving a away a mint condition Suunto MC-2 through Rafflecopter! You can get up to five entries in the contest, just click the Rafflecopter link for details!
isclaimer: David Lottmann has bought this compass, more than once with his own money, because he thinks it’s the best damn compass out there. This post contains affiliate links that help support this blog.
*not getting lost depends on trip preparation, not karma, but ordering through those links can’t hurt
After finishing another Wilderness Navigation Course today for the Appalachian Mountain Club in Pinkham Notch I decided it was finally time I post a review on the one piece of equipment I have carried in the mountains for over two decades. My compass, the Sunnto MC-2.
The compass is the 2nd piece of equipment listed in the often referred to “Ten Essentials” and is a must for anyone heading to the mountains for a bit of adventure. A great gear list for hiking & backpacking can be found here on http://www.hikesafe.com
Since this piece of equipment is so important it’s wise to put a little thought into your choice. For the money, I have not found a more fully functional compass that can do as much as the Sunnto MC-2 anywhere, which is why I have happily replaced mine three times in the last 20 years when I misplaced (or loaned) it to someone and never got it back.
Without getting into the intricacies of accurate map & compass work I want to call out exactly what sets this compass apart in the field.
Sighting Mirror
Suunto MC-2 Compass Review
How important is a sighting mirror? Depending on the range to your target the sighting mirror can play a significant role in accurate bearing reading. It allows you to hold the compass at eye level and arms length and still read the information given on the dial/bezel. Two “sights” are present, a higher “gun notch” and a level gap below the mirror, so you have better accuracy based on relative elevation to your target. I find I can get a bearing 3-4 degrees more accurately with this style than a regular “base-plate” type compass. In my lectures I compare the accuracy of this style compass to a rifle aimed from the shoulder vs. a pistol fired from the hip. A sighting mirror is more accurate hands down. It also has the added benefit of being an excellent signal mirror for search and rescue aircraft and allows me to easily put my prescription contacts in on multi-day trips!
Extended Baseplate
Suunto MC-2 Review
While technically an off-shoot of the sighting mirror the fact that a fully opened Sunnto MC-2 can cover 7 inches across a map makes it really convenient for taking bearings and plotting location with known points (re-section & triangulation). These skills, when used with smaller base-plate compasses, often involve estimation, map folding, or the use of a straight edge to get an accurate reading. With the Sunnto MC-2 plotting on a map is simple.
Large clear dial
The orienteering lines are highly visible under the bezel/dial, making accurate measurement possible from any north-south lines on the map or along the edge of the map.
Clinometer
Suunto MC-2 Compass Review
A clinometer measures slope angle. This is extremely important for those travelling in avalanche terrain as a difference of 5 degrees of slope can often mean the difference between a slope being stable or unstable. Savvy mountain travelers in avalanche terrain are constantly checking slope angle, and to do so accurately one needs a clinometer. The Sunnto MC-2 has one built in that can function on the slope like the photo above, or in conjunction with the sighting mirror while looking up or down a slope.
The above photo of me measuring slope angle was coincidentally taken moments before a human triggered size-able avalanche caught 5 people on Mount Washington. One of the people caught is just disappearing out of the safer area we where at before the incident occurred. My write up of this incident is here.
Adjustable Declination
The Sunnto MC-2, like many top tier compasses, allows one to set the magnetic declination for the area of operation. I am not going to dive into a detailed conversation on declination in a gear review but simply put this is a solid feature for a vast majority of recreationalists and mountain professionals. There are many professionals out there that feel it is almost required. Since I teach courses to people with various pre-owned compasses my personal opinion is if one truly wants to understand solid map & compass work one needs to be able to navigate with an adjustable or non-adjustable compass. That being said, the fact it is an option on this compass is win-win, I just choose not to use it.
A small feature, but helpful none-the-less! This feature really helps when decoding small print & icons on a faded map!
1:24k and 1:62500 scales
The Sunnto MC-2 has two distance scales along the side calibrated to the two most popular USGS map scales. Combined with the included lanyard it should be quite easy to accurate estimate distances on your maps.
In case you want some manufacture specifications here they are:
High grade steel needle with jewel bearing
Balanced for northern hemisphere
Adjustable declination correction
Liquid filled capsule for stable operation
Mirror for sighting bearings and signaling
Sighting hole and notch for accurate bearings
Non-luminescent bezel
Clinometer
Luminescent markings for working in low light
Metric scales and inch ruler
Baseplate with magnifying lens
Detachable snap-lock lanyard with wristlock. Easy to detach for working with the map
Suunto limited lifetime warranty
Made in Finland
Summary:
There is little improvement to suggest on such a well crafted piece of outdoor gear. For global travel Suunto does offer a slightly more expensive global version but for anyone staying in the northern hemisphere you can pick this compass up at a great price here:
Using theses link will help support this blog and earn you karma and increased karma means less chance of getting lost*.
Suunto MC-2 Compass Review
Interested in a comprehensive 8-hour course that covers map & compass along with survival “improvised” navigation? Go here.
Disclaimer: David Lottmann has bought this compass, more than once with his own money, because he thinks it’s the best damn compass out there. This post contains affiliate links that help support this blog.
*not getting lost depends on trip preparation, not karma, but ordering through those links can’t hurt!
For the last two decades Black Diamond Camalots have been a mainstay of my rack. When the new C4’s came out in 2005 I upgraded my whole rack and saved over a pound in the process. While I’d been aware of the DMM Dragon Cams for a few years it wasn’t until I needed to replace a few well loved cams on my rack that I decided to give them a try.
DMM Dragon Cams Review
I picked up the 2, 3, 4, and 5, which is equivalent to the Black Diamond C4 .75, 1, 2, and 3.
Since the numbers the manufacturers assigned for the sizes do not correlate well we will be happier if we refer to them by color (which thankfully correlates). So I picked up the green, red, yellow, and blue size.
A welcome addition to the rack
While they felt light in hand manufacturer specs and my home scale confirmed they are almost identical in weight to the Black Diamond C4’s. A full set of each weighs within one ounce of the other, with the Dragons coming in a hair lighter.
While I was not able to obtain a set of Black Diamond Ultralights for this review using the manufacturer specifications I calculated one would save about 8 ounces, half a pound, over either the DMM Dragons or the Black Diamond C4’s for a full rack. That weight savings comes at considerable cost, about $200 more for a full rack. The weight savings are noticeable throughout the size range but the largest gains are made in the biggest sizes.
Breaking down the numbers
When comparing weight savings we have to take a look at probably the most noticeable feature of the DMM Dragons, the inclusion of an extendable dyneema sling.
Expandable sling not extendedExpandable sling extended
The advantages & disadvantages to this unique feature are a bit specific to the route & type of climbing you predominantly do, but lets take a look. First, you can gain 12-14cm of “free” extension on your placement without having to carry an extra quickdraw. How much weight can that save? Well 7-8 average quick-draws like the Petzl Djinns weigh close to 2 pounds, so that’s significant. On a straight up route where the gear is in-line this advantage is less pronounced as you’ll be clipping the sling un-extended, just like the sling on a C4. On a wandering line or alpine route this feature could probably save you a few draws and slings further reducing total pack weight.
Hot forged thumb press
There are a few considerations with this design. First, the “thumb loop” found on the Black Diamond C4’s is considered to be one of the easiest to manipulate when pumped or trying to surgically get the best possible placement in a weird situation. Personally I feel the thump press on the DMM Dragons is plenty sufficient to keep control of the cam while making difficult placements. The thumb loop does provide a higher clip point on the protection, which should only be used for aid climbing applications, so this point is quite obscure for non-aid climbing applications. The last concern is the more complex cleaning process for the second. If the sling is extended it can be tricky to re-rack the cam one handed without it hanging low off the harness. With a little practice it can be done, but it is definitely not as easy as re-racking an unextended sling.
As for holding power there has been anecdotal comments since they were released in 2010 that the slightly thinner surface area might be a concern in softer rock (sandstone). I have not seen any evidence of DMM Dragons failing in softer sandstone conditions when a thicker cam head may have held, so I think that theory can be debunked at this point.
DMM Dragon Cams Review
While I can only compare tech specs on the currently sold out Black Diamond Ultralights I am looking forward to reviewing them (and the Metolius Master Cams) in detail once I get my hands on them. I’m hoping the above spreadsheet is helpful for some when deciding if the additional weight savings is worth the additional moo-lah. For some it will be a resounding yes, and others will be happier with the flexibility of the DMM Dragons, or the time-tested standby of the C4’s (especially if also aid climbing).
Right now both DMM Dragon cams and Black Diamond C4’s are on sale on Amazon here and here! You could pick up a full set of Dragons for around $450 or C4’s for around $400!
I’m giving away a brand new Black Diamond Camalot C4 Size #1, a $79.95 value! The contest is being run through Rafflecopter and ends at 12:00am September 30th, 2016! Enter up to four times!
This Spring & Summer I climbed almost exclusively in the Petzl Hirundos and would like to share my opinion on this well received harness by Petzl. The Hirundos is a solid option for any climber looking to shed a couple ounces and gain a bit of comfort. Let’s have a look.
Stock photo from Petzl.comExploring Middle Sugarloaf whilst wearing the Petzl Hirundos harness- May 2016
WEIGHT/PACK-ABILITY:
I prefer lightweight weight harnesses that pack up small. My home scale weighs my size XL Hirundos in at just over 11 ounces.
11 1/4 ounces
This is a full pound lighter than my Petzl Corax that I used last winter and if there is a slight loss of comfort in the design I have not noticed. I also prefer harnesses that collapse neatly and fit easily inside my climbing helmet as I usually pack my helmet towards the top of my climbing pack. Since I usually don my helmet as soon as I get to the cliff it is most convenient to pack my harness with it.
Efficient use of space
SIZING:
According to the official size chart I would have fit a large with 6 cms to spare but a similarly built co-worker suggested I purchase an XL and his advice was spot on. My 5’9″ 180 lb frame with a 34 inch waist and thicker thighs definitely needed the XL despite the Petzl size chart.
References
C36AO XS
C36AO S
C36AO M
C36AO L
C36AO XL
Color(s)
orange
orange
orange
orange
orange
Size
XS
S
M
L
XL
Waist belt
65-71 cm
71-77 cm
77-84 cm
84-92 cm
92-100 cm
Leg loops
48-53 cm
48-53 cm
52-57 cm
55-60 cm
57-62 cm
Weight
250 g
270 g
280 g
300 g
315 g
While this harness is marketed towards sport climbing (and alpine climbing) I would suggest anyone that has muscular thighs to consider sizing up if you can’t get to a gear shop to try it on. If you have more than a 36 inch waist you will want to look at other options.
COMFORT:
The Hirundos uses something called “Fuseframe” technology. A fancy word for a pretty straight forward idea. Instead of just adding padding around the structural strength of the waist belt Petzl splits the support with “thermo-formed foam” in a way that reduces pressure points and aids in weight distribution. It is extremely comfortable for a harness that weighs less than a pound! I also found the mesh to be breathable and quick drying even when the humidity was high.
A day in July on Cathedral Ledge
The stretchy fitted leg loop material is more comfortable to me than any “adjustable” metal buckled leg loops I have ever used, and has enough range of movement that I have no concerns about adding some long underwear and some soft-shell ice climbing pants to this outfit for some ice climbing this winter (is it winter yet?).
Features:
The “DoubleBack HD” buckle provides quick secure on/off adjustment of the harness. While double-back buckles have become standard in this category this small profile buckle adjusts more smoothly than larger style buckles that are in common use.
Slim buckle- stock photo from Petzl.com
As typical of this style harness there are 4 gear loops but Petzl has put more thought into them then just adding 4 loops. The front two are rigid, allowing easier clipping and un-clipping of quick-draws and protection. The rear two are flexible and soft which makes wearing a full size backpack a bit more comfortable (and aids in the compress-ability of the harness for packing).
Well designed gear loops- photo from Petzl.com
There are two integrated CARITOOL screw/tool holder slots so I’ll definitely be using this harness once the ice season starts (is it here yet?) If you ice climb you should definitely pick a couple of these up:
Rounding out the features are detachable rear buckles that can help with sorting a tangled harness (and answering nature’s call) and the inclusion of high-tenacity polyethylene (instead of just regular nylon) at the tie-in points that helps reduce abrasion and wear at a high stress point.
Detachable butt straps- photo from Petzl.com
CONCLUSION:
After 4 months of climbing sport, trad, and alpine I can give this harness a hearty endorsement. It’s light, pack-able, comfortable, and well thought out. If you’re looking for a new rig check this harness out on Amazon here!
If you liked this review or want to plug YOUR favorite harness please do so in the comments below!
See you in the mountains,
Northeast Alpine Start
Disclaimer: David Lottmann bought this harness with his own money. This post contains affiliate links.
