Mountaineering

Ice Climbing 201

David Lottmann Ice Climbing, Mountaineering

Yesterday I got to take 4 guys ice climbing as the 2nd day of our 3 Day Accelerated Mountaineering Program. They had already spent day one learning the basics of crampon and ice axe use so today we added in some multi-pitch climbing skills and ascended the beautiful Silver Cascade in Crawford Notch. It was quite cool climbing beside open waterfalls on solid ice and hearing the water running near us during much of the day. Despite a very busy weekend we had the climb to ourselves and enjoyed over 1,100 feet of climbing.

Climbing the first of many pitches
Climbing the first of many pitches
Hanging at a belay
Hanging at a belay
Silver Cascade, Crawford Notch
Silver Cascade, Crawford Notch

Mount Washington Observatory Overnight Trip

David Lottmann Mountaineering

Today I got back from an excellent two days on Mount Washington with 9 very motivated climbers who summited the mountain with me in some of the coldest wind-chills I have ever summitted in… how cold you ask? -65 degrees… that’s how cold… This was a couple hours after we summit and it had warmed up to -53:

066Despite the brutal wind chill we had excellent visibility for our ascent, and we enjoyed a great meal by the volunteers and some informative weather educational content from Rebecca Scholand of the Mount Washington Observatory. The next morning temps were a bit more reasonable for our descent, but visibility on the summit had dropped to 50 feet. Regardless, we had a fairly smooth descent and other than a shredded pair of gaiters we were non-the-worse.

Here we go
Here we go
Some instructional time a few minutes up the trail
Some instructional time a few minutes up the trail
Heading up Lions Head trail
Heading up Lions Head trail
Heading up the summit cone
Heading up the summit cone
Dinner!
Dinner!
Weather room tour 1
Weather room tour 1
Heading up into the tower
Heading up into the tower
Up in the tower during 80+mph winds
Up in the tower during 80+mph winds
Has to be a summit photo!
Has to be a summit photo!
Enjoying the flats
Enjoying the flats
Shredded
Shredded

For more info on our overnight trips to the Mount Washington Observatory please go here.

 

 

Climbing with Martin

David Lottmann Ice Climbing, Mountaineering , ,

Last year Martin attempted Mount Washington with me, and we were turned back at Lion’s Head due to some very harsh weather. This year Martin returned, all the way from Denmark, to make another attempt. I had two days to climb with him so we started at Frankenstein for some ice climbing, and attacked Washington yesterday. We moved quickly and made the summit by 11:50am, my earliest guided summit yet! Visibility was pretty poor but careful use of route flags and solid map & compass skills kept us on track.

Frankenstein Trestle
The Trestle Slab
Trestle Slab
Standard Route
Approaching Standard Route
Looking up from inside the Standard Route Cave
Martin follows the first pitch
Rappelling from the cave
Breaking tree-line on the Lion’s Head Winter Route
A rare shot of the guide
Visibility worsened above Lion’s Head
These route wands were key to staying on route, I de-iced some and relocated others as we ascended...
Obligatory summit photo
On the descent
Clouds break just below Lion’s Head
Summit conditions that day...

Thanks for a fun two days Martin, hope to see you back again next winter for a new adventure!

3 Day Mountaineering Course

David Lottmann Ice Climbing, Mountaineering ,

This past weekend was the first (and only) weekend of the winter that I was not scheduled to teach an avalanche course. Instead I had the great pleasure of taking father/son team Stephen and Randy out for their first few days of ice climbing and mountaineering. These two have already had a hoist of adventures from volunteering in Nepal to vacations in Thailand, I was glad to be part of their ongoing adventures. So glad I decided to break out the iMovie skillz for a 3 minute recap of their 3 days. Enjoy!

Mount Washington Ascent 4-2-2011

David Lottmann Mountaineering ,

Philipe and Matt joined Joe, Benny, and I yesterday for an attempt on Mount Washington. Deep snow had fallen the day before and I got the pleasure of breaking the trail from the base of the steeps all the way to Split Rock. Visibility was about 10 feet on the summit cone, and we decided that given the winds and visibility that Split Rock was an excellent high point for the day. Another great day in the mountains!

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Mount Washington Winter Ascent

David Lottmann Mountaineering ,

Yesterday, the LAST day of winter, I had the opportunity to take mother and son team, Amy and Will, on their first ascent of Mount Washington. These two had done some other adventurous stuff around the world; climbing in  the Gunks, back-country snowboarding in the San Juan’s, glacier travel in Alaska, sea kayaking, and more.

Given the crowds, ascending the traditional Lion’s Head Winter Route, and the snow conditions in the Ravine, we opted for the more alpine “Lobster Claw” gully to ascend the mountain. We were treated to bluebird skies, virtually no wind, and very reasonable temperatures (I was in a t-shirt most the day). We descended Lion’s Head after enjoying the summit, and through out the day every person we met on the mountain had the same thing to say. “How about this weather?”

Hitchcock Gully

David Lottmann Ice Climbing, Mountaineering , ,

Earlier this month I had the pleasure of introducing NYC brothers Chris and Greg to the joys of winter mountaineering. We had a blast climbing at Cathedral Ledge and Mt. Willard, so much so that I made a short iMovie video of the day:

2 Day Winter Mountaineering Course

Greg came back yesterday for more, and we geared up and returned to Mt. Willard. This time, for Hitchcock Gully. The day didn’t go completely perfect… Lunch? Missing. Ice axe? Dropped on lower Hitchcock (and recovered) Post-hole hell on the top out? Check!

Despite the small setbacks we had an amazing day! The ice was great (the de-thawed moss not so much), weather great, conversation great, and the post climb beer great.

Good to see you again Greg. Now get that speeding ticket taken care of and see you up here next time!

2 Day Winter Mountaineering Course

David Lottmann Ice Climbing, Mountaineering ,

I had the pleasure of taking brother’s Chris and Greg on their first few climbs as they quickly discovered their new passion for ice climbing and mountaineering. We started the first day at the North End of Cathedral Ledge, working on the basics of crampon and ice ax use, belaying, rappelling, and more. On day 2 we headed up to Mt. Willard in Crawford Notch, and climbed the classic 700 foot “Cinema Gully”. After rappelling part way down Hitchcock Gully we were treated to a great 600 foot glissade back to the train tracks. These guys were soaking up the experience, and I look forward to climbing with them again!