7-5-09 Private Rock Climbing

After what felt like an eternity of rain and no guiding work I had the great pleasure of climbing with Art & Carol, two close friends of a regular client and friend of mine, John Deangelis. You can see photos of John and I ice climbing earlier in this blog.

Gearing up at the car for a full day...
Gearing up at the car for a full day...

Expecting a busy cliff given the holiday weekend and break in the weather we started by driving up the auto road so a quick hike down to Upper Refuse would get us warmed up…
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Since Art and Carol are out lead climbing on their own we started discussing the finer points of belay management, protecting the second considerations, etc.

Art following the second pitch via the 5.6ish variation...
Art following the second pitch via the 5.6ish variation...
Carol pulls the small overlap with a side-pull and high step...
Carol pulls the small overlap with a side-pull and high step...
The 2nd Belay Ledge is pretty comfortable
The 2nd Belay Ledge is pretty comfortable
The view isn't to bad from here either!
The view isn't to bad from here either!
Art nearing the top of the climb with some exposure...
Art nearing the top of the climb with some exposure...
Carol nearing the top...
Carol nearing the top...
Echo Lake is in the background...
Echo Lake is in the background...

After topping out we made our way to the bottom of the cliff and hiked up to Thin Air. There were a couple parties on the 2nd pitch so we decided to eat a quick lunch and then start up.

Another party on the Thin Air Face
Another party on the Thin Air Face
Saco River is visible to the north...
Saco River is visible to the north...
Crossing the traverse on Pitch 2 of Thin Air
Crossing the traverse on Pitch 2 of Thin Air

After this we realized the party on the pitch above was a party of 4. We decided not to get stuck behind them and Art and Carol both took a quick TR on the 5.8r climb, Thinner, directly below the anchor here. After rappelling we made our way to the North End of the cliff for a run on the 5.7, Kiddy Crack.

It was a great day with perfect temps, dry rock (for the most part), and great company. I knew when meeting you guys last winter that we would climb well together and I thank John for the solid recommendation. You are both a pleasure to climb and to grab a pint with! Hope to see you again soon!

6-11-09 elite military unit training!

Got to work with an elite military unit who were taking a 8 day intensive climbing course from us! These guys were fit, motivated, and out-going. The constant semi-positive “heckling” that occurred through-out the day really brought me back to my previous time in the service. I didn’t get too many photos, since getting 9 people up Fun House and Upper Refuse and then rapping all the way back down often takes two hands!

 

Half-way up the cliff some of us regroup on the large tree ledge...
Half-way up the cliff some of us regroup on the large tree ledge...

 

Got to look tough when working with these guys...
Got to look tough when working with these guys...
Good spirits 100 feet from the top...
Good spirits 100 feet from the top...

 

Use the handhold...
Use the handhold...
too find the foot holds!
to find the foot holds!

 

Two 200 foot long rappels got us back to the ground...
Two 200 foot long rappels got us back to the ground...

I would like to thank all nine of you for climbing with us but especially for your service! Godspeed with your upcoming deployments, climb safe, stay safe, and get back stateside when the mission is complete. Semper Fi.

6-10-09 Intro to Multi-Pitch Rock Climbing

I had the great pleasure of guiding Danielle and Danielle on Cathedral Ledge today. Two very out going young women who both work for EMS stores in Massachusetts, but had only met a month prior. The way these two got along made me think they were lifelong friends, and I really enjoyed introducing them to the aspects of multi-pitch rock climbing while we scaled Upper Refuse on Cathedral Ledge.

 

On the hike to the climb we got this view of nearby Whitehorse Ledge
On the hike to the climb we got this view of nearby Whitehorse Ledge

 

We started with a refresher on rappelling, and rapped down the Barber Wall
We started with a refresher on rappelling, and rapped down the Barber Wall

 

 

The view from Airation Buttress after lunch
The view from Airation Buttress after lunch

Thank you both for a great day, hope to see you on the cliffs soon!

4-24-09 Mount Washington Ascent

Despite rock climbing last week the Mountaineering Season is not over! I had the great pleasure of guiding David and his 9 year old son Griffin up Mt. Washington today. Griffin is the youngest person I have seen climb Mt. Washington in these winter conditions and he did an incredible job! The Winter Lion’s Head route was in very rough condition and made for some challenging climbing. Slush on top of water ice with some steep wet rock. We prevailed though, and were rewarded with calm winds above tree-line and some fantastic glissading conditions. Be sure to enable High-Def on the top right of the video. Hope you enjoy the slideshow;

4-18-09 Rock Climbing on Cathedral Ledge

For my 1st guiding day of 2009’s rock season I was happy to meet Nat and his two sons Alex and Thomas for a “First Ascent” rock climbing program.

 

Gearing up on the Cathedral Ledge Auto Road
Gearing up on the Cathedral Ledge Auto Road

It’s about a 10 minute hike up to where we would start some basic rock climbing:

 

Thomas warming up for the climbing ahead...
Thomas warming up for the climbing ahead...
Nat checking how high up he is getting...
Nat checking how high up he is getting...
Alex nicely composed...
Alex nicely composed...
Thomas getting creative with his knees...
Thomas getting creative with his knees...
Belay Squad looking good...
Belay Squad looking good...
Nat with Mount Washington Valley in the background...
Nat with Mount Washington Valley in the background...
Thomas on his first rappel...
Thomas on his first rappel...
Nat on rappel...
Nat on rappel...

Thank you guys for a great day out… the rain held out, the climbing was good… and the Oreo’s delicious. Hope to see you back here for some more!

2-10-09 Day off, let’s go for a walk in the wilderness…

I’ld heard “Way in the Wilderness” was in good shape, so good friend and climbing partner Bob and I decided to take a walk out there to attempt it. I had climbed this route a few years back as one of my first Grade 5 leads and was excited to get back to it.

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As we started gearing up the sun really started to shine…

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While Bob was racking up bits of chandelier ice starting coming down from above, indicating the effects of solar radiation on fragile ice… The crux looked pretty tricky, and with the added worry of something larger breaking off in the warm temps we decided it was not to be… we decided instead to explore some of the ice to the left of this route, closer to the Rainbow Slabs area…

 

We rigged a top-rope on this 100 foot climb. It started with a thin sun-baked slab and ended with this great 40 foot steep curtain that was a bit thin in places but great fun to climb! I will add a time lapse video later once I get the new iMovie!
We rigged a top-rope on this 100 foot climb. It started with a thin sun-baked slab and ended with this great 40 foot steep curtain that was a bit thin in places but great fun to climb! I will add a time lapse video later once I get the new iMovie!

Feeling good after a few laps on this we moved further left and found this great little route:

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This short grade 3ish start lead to 200 feet of fun grade 2 with a little bulge near the top and great views of Rainbow Slabs all the way to the Covered Bridge…

 

Bob topping out the 150 foot section of neve-like climbing...
Bob topping out the 150 foot section of neve-like climbing...

 

A rope stretching 200 foot rappel got us to the ground, where we packed up and headed for the car (and ultimately the Moat Brewery of course).

While we didn’t get our ideal climb in, we enjoyed the exploring and time spent in a beautiful place, and who knows, winter is not over yet!