For years I’ve wanted to give this blog a make-over. A more creative name than… firstnamelastname at WordPress… a better Product Review Page (check out the new Guide Tested page), a connection to other great climbing websites out there (page under construction), and today I finally had the time & motivation to get it to a point where I felt I could push “publish”.
In the past this blog has mostly been a place where I could summarize days guiding and upload photos for clients to access the fun we had in the mountains. It will still be that, but will also be more focused on something every climber & skier is passionate about. Gear.
Also a “how-to-guides-tips-and-tricks” section is in the making. While tying a one-handed clove-hitch might not help you break into 5.11 it definitely looks cool.
NEAlpineStart is also now on Facebook so please give us a Like there. If you are into gear then definitely subscribe, here’s a quick list of what I’ll be reviewing over the next couple of months;
Dynafit Denali Skis
Black Diamond Dawn Patrol Pants
Black Diamond Convergent Shell Jacket
KINCOS Gloves <- so in love with these thanks to NEClimbs Review
Ortovox Avalanche Beacons, S1, S1+, Zoom
And a LOT more… so please Subscribe, Like, Share, Comment, etc… I am stoked to get this blog out there to more people who tear it up in the North East, whether on rock, ice, or snow, we’re all enjoying the ride!
Reports of climbable ice in the ravines has motivated Bob & I to head up the mountain and see what’s what. It has been a few years since I have climbed ice this early and we left our options open, not knowing if we would head into Tuckerman Ravine for a more mellow alpine cragging type day or commit to something more in Huntington Ravine.
(7:30AM) We left Pinkham Notch Visitor Center and made our way up to the Huntington Ravine Trail. The weather appeared better than the forecast so we opted to head over to Huntington. While I have climbed in Huntington Ravine dozens of times I have rarely taken the trail that breaks off from the Tuckerman Ravine Trail at 1.3 miles. It is usually faster to stay on the Tuckerman Trail until the “fire road”, then cut over towards Huntington, but today Bob and I relished the chance to enjoy a section of trail that we are not so familiar with it. We soon reached one of the river crossings that makes this option less preferable to the fire road choice.
Crossing the Cutler River
It took a minute to pick a line through the rocks and keep our feet dry. Someone got wet recently based on that hole in the above photo… careful on those early season crossings! We continued until we reached the fire road and followed that to the base of “The Fan”. It must have took 40 minutes to work our way up to Pinnacle. With almost no snow in the ravine and a half inch of verglas ice on every bus sized boulder the going was quite slow. Under and over and through we picked a line up through the Fan while a party of three followed suit.
Reaching the top of the Fan, just below Pinnacle, with a party of three just behind usPinnacle Gully looking good for November 20th!
(10:10AM) I took the first lead and must say it felt great to swing the tools again. I could tell I wasn’t in the shape I usually am for climbing ice but felt quite solid… like riding a bike, you don’t forget. I placed 4-5 screws in 230 feet before reaching the 3 pin anchor above the steeper start of the route and put Bob on belay. He had to simul-solo about 30 feet for me to reach the anchor.
Looking down pitch 1, Bob is all smiles
I was amp’d to go again on the more mellow 2nd pitch and we fired that 220 foot pitch off before I stopped to bring Bob up. Bob took the last 100 feet and we were at the top of the gully by 12:30. After coiling the rope and “de-gearing” we starting picking our way up 300 feet to the rim of the ravine. Again, conditions are slow going this early in the season.
(1:05PM), Alpine Garden Trail. I realize what a huge mistake not bringing micro-spikes was as Bob cruises along and I am stuck between bare-booting or technical crampons. Bare-booting works till the Lions Head where I put my technical crampons back on. The trail is nothing but rock and half an inch of glaze… really hard to move quick this time of year.
We make it back to Pinkham by 3:30PM, 8 hours car to car, not too bad given the conditions. All I can say is I am amp’d up for this ice/ski season. I think it is going to be a stellar year, despite the warmth & rain that will hit us right before Thanksgiving the long range forecast is favorable for Thanksgiving Weekend and will hopefully set us up for a great December.
Editor’s Note: This blog is getting a make-over! New URL, new theme, LOTS of product reviews, check out the new “Guide Tested” page, links to awesome climbing & back-country skiing websites, and more… so… if any of this type of stuff interests you maybe you subscribe at the top tight of the website? Maybe?
This past Saturday I met an incredibly enthusiastic aspiring climber, James, and headed off to Whitehorse Ledge. After some “ground school” we cruised 600 feet up to Lunch Ledge. After taking in the view we made our way back down in 3 double rope rappels, then headed over to Cathedral. Unfortunately our day was cut short unexpectedly, but I’m happy to know I’ll be climbing with James again in the very near future.
As the winter guiding season winds down I’ve had the time to upload a few dozen photos from trips & courses I have run over the last two months. Changes to photo usage within the company have made it slightly more tricky for me to post direct, though I should be able to embed them directly shortly. For now, here’s a link to the album on the EMS Schools Facebook page:
Yesterday with 3 other EMS guides I got to take out the always motivated Brooks School outing club. This is the 3rd year in a row I’ve gotten to work with a new group of kids from this school and it’s always a blast watching them throw themselves at any challenge with encouragement and support from each other. North End of Cathedral was huge & plastic and despite a surprise 180 on the icy drive out the day went as expected, awesome!
EMS Guide Keith Moon addresses some climbing issues
On the stepper pillars
EMS Schools Guide Keith Moon demonstrates some technique
This year we scheduled a mid-week avalanche course and while it didn’t fill up it had 4 of the most motivated participants I’ve seen! A climbing guide from down east, an EMS Climbing Guide from the Gunks, a wilderness survival instructor, and a very adventurous hard charging snowboarder made for a fun productive 3 days. While white-out conditions and -50 wind chills kept us below the bowl we saw some awesome stuff over in Hillman’s Highway!
Debris at base of Cinema GullyLooking up Cinema Gully with fresh debris from Monday’s rainJen points at…. somethingReady to head to Hermit LakeDecent size debris in Hillman’s… some ran further down into the base of Lower SnowfieldsAt Hermit LakeMy field notes from our tour day
If you were thinking about getting into one of these courses this season don’t delay any longer. We have a few courses left with space availability, details here:
Yesterday we finished our 2nd AIARE 1 Avalanche Course of the season and it was an excellent 3 days. Back to back Nor’ Easter’s left us with a varied and interesting snow-pack to travel on and highly engaged participants really added up to a productive three days! I’m keeping this post short as I have another avalanche class starting tomorrow I need to prepare for.
Beacon Range CheckSome snowpack obs on east side of WillardAvalanche Advisory Board at PNVCSome group planningHeading up Tuckerman Ravine Trail, EMS Schools AIARE Avalanche CourseReaching our highpoint between Left Gully & The Chute, with the other half of our class entering the Sluice area in the backgroundMaking some snowpack observations between The Chute & Left GullyPanorama of our position in the bowlMy field book notes from our Tour Day
If you were thinking about getting into one of these courses this season don’t delay any longer. We have a few courses left with space availability, details here:
