Outdoor Research Alibi II Gloves Review

High Performance Sticky Technical Perfection!

Outdoor Research Alibi II Gloves
Outdoor Research Alibi II Gloves

A couple months ago I mentioned I would be reviewing these after I reviewed Kincos gloves as an affordable alternative to high end climbing gloves. While Kincos are great for general mountaineering and back-country skiing  sometimes the cost of fancy specified gloves are worth it. The Outdoor Research Alibi II Gloves are a perfect case in point.

Getting ready to descend Goofer's Delight today on Cathedral Ledge
Getting ready to descend Goofer’s Delight today on Cathedral Ledge- Photo by EMS Schools Guide Mike Lackman

My go to glove for leading harder ice climbs the last few years has been the Black Diamond Torque Gloves. While I have never formally reviewed the Torque’s, they are still a well loved model in my current selection of ice climbing gloves. At $20 more than the BD Torques I was interested in seeing how these might out perform the Torques. They win out over the Torques in three important ways;

1) Warmth. While still an un-insulated “thin” glove with excellent dexterity the Alibi II is a bit warmer than the BD Torques. I still opt to wear my EMS Glove Liners with either glove, as this dirt cheap glove liner adds a bit of warmth and comfort to either of these gloves and makes them both feel a bit more comfortable against skin, especially when using the Alibi’s as the inside of the Alibi can get a bit clammy during a day of climbing.

2) Grippy-ness. The Alibi II uses quite a bit of “Pittards® Oiltac Leather Palm for Enhanced Grip and Optimum Control in Wet or Dry Conditions”. This material is simply the stickiest material I have ever found in a climbing glove. It almost feels un-natural how “tacky” this proprietary leather is. My climbing partner today showed disbelief that this leather was not actually a synthetic rubber compound. You really need to feel it in hand to realize the reality of how sticky the material is.

3) Durability. This same unique leather boasts a lot of durability over the non-slip synthetic materials used in similar gloves. After trashing multiple pairs of BD Torques while rappelling & belaying over the years I think I’ve found a thin pair of technical gloves that I do not always have to swap out with my more durable Kincos for every single rappel. To be honest a couple full rappels on the BD Torques could show visual signs of wear in the palm. Today a hasty full length rappel from a Cathedral Ledge ice climb showed no noticeable wear on the palm. While I can burn through a pair of BD Torques in a full season from what I have seen so far I may be able to get 2-3 full seasons out of the Alibi II’s.

Two other small convenience features add value to these ultra-light technical gloves. First, the “carabiner loops” on the middle finger that let you clip them quickly to a Petzl Cari-tool or carabiner while you fiddle with something requiring glove liner, or bare hand, dexterity. Second the re-enforced pull loops at the cuff that help you pull the snug fitting glove in place. No need to bite the cuff while trying to slip these on!

In summary, these should be on your radar if you are leading Grade 3+ and above ice. Having excellent dexterity while placing & clipping ice screws is a huge boon when leading. I’ll still fall back on my insulated BD Ice Gloves for leading in really cold conditions, but for the fast majority of ice climbing days you’ll find me happily swinging away in my new Outdoor Research Alibi II Gloves which you can purchase here.

Buy on Backcountry

Disclaimer: I purchased these gloves with my own money. This post contains affiliate links that help support this site.

 

Washington, Willard, Washington, Cathedral, and nights thinking about avalanches…

It’s been a fun filled 4 days with two ascents of Mount Washington, a multi-pitch ice climbing day at Willard, and a half-day of ice climbing with the excellent kids of Brooks School from North Andover, MA at the North End of Cathedral. Winter is in full swing and I have a day off tomorrow to attend to the less exciting things in life like laundry & dump runs but I’m looking forward to some multi-pitch ice on Thursday and a booked avalanche course for Sat-Sun-Mon.

Lately every day brings another couple inches of snow to Washington and we have an excellent outdoor classroom to run a course right now. Given the latest headline news of a couple young US Ski Team hopefuls (one quite local)  losing their lives in an avalanche last week in Austria and another recent fatality in Silverton, CO I’ve been thinking a lot about the White Mountain Avalanche Fund set up by the US Forest Service and how I might be able to liaison between EMS Schools and this fund to get some potential “at-risk” high-school students into an AIARE 1 course next winter. Juniors & Seniors at high-schools with strong ski teams are the most likely to be entering avalanche terrain soon after High School and establishing some solid decision making skills at this critical age could hopefully help prevent some of these tragedy’s in the future.

EMS Schools Management is behind the idea so my next step is to find point of contacts at regional high-schools with strong ski programs. Kennett & Fryeburg Acadamy are most local, but the abundance of private high-schools with great ski programs in NH is quite long, and it will take some research to make sure the right people are aware of this educational, potentially life saving, opportunity. My goal right now is to have at-least 1 AIARE Course next winter comprised of 12 high-school students most likely to ski in avalanche terrain in the years following their graduations.

So far this year we have had 4 in country avalanche fatalities, plus the 2 out of county, compared to 5 in country this time last year. The more sobering statistic is we had 35 fatalities last season… there is a lot of winter left! If anyone reading this has the names or email addresses of High School Ski Program Directors in NH/ME/VT please let me know, this recent tragedy can be turned into a catalyst of preventive education if we can connect the right people to the right resources…

See you in the mountains,

NEAlpineStart

P.S. Contest running until 1/31/15 for two brand new ice screws. Simple to enter. Like North East Alpine Start on Facebook for 1 entry, follow/subscribe to this blog for a second entry (link is top right).  Winner announced on 2/2/15.

Mt. Willard Multi-Pitch Ice Climbing

Excellent day on Mt. Willard today! Andrew & Matt had quite a bit of experience already so we really were able to cover some ground.

Love New England approaches!
Love New England approaches!

We arrived at the base of Hitchcock Gully around 9:30. The lower half had some great water ice so we geared up and short-pitched our way up to the lower cliff band. Here we broke right and made our way over to Left Hand Monkey Wrench. I have always approached LHMW directly from the tracks so I was into checking this option out. The Lower Hitchcock approach is definitely faster, and easier to find, so I don’t think I’ll be bushwhacking up to LHMW ever again. Learning never stops!

LHMW was in great shape, and we climbed the left hand start on mostly plastic wet ice. I was practicing a “para-pillar” rope technique to keep us moving and it worked quite well, though a 70m would have been handy as I was on a bi-pattern 60 and it didn’t quite reach the anchor while doubled.

Looking down LHMW
Looking down LHMW

A short shwack brought us to the base of a very juicy looking East Face Slab Right. The sun was out, the wind was down, and we took a moment to hydrate & eat before I set a rope up on the route so we could work on some steeper ice technique.

Juicy
Juicy
Andrew belays while Matt crushes
Andrew belays while Matt crushes

After a couple of burns on this route we moved over to Upper Hitchcock and finished up 2 great pitches to the top.

Looking good!
Looking good!
Andrew closing in on the belay
Andrew closing in on the belay

The trail to the summit was not packed out but it only took us 20 minutes to reach the summit.

Mt. Webster looms in the background
Mt. Webster looms in the background

Definitely an A+ day, we got about 6 pitches in and just about 1,000 feet of climbing, car to car in 6 hours, and it was not as cold as expected. Tomorrow, however, these two brave gents will be attempting Willey’s Slide together. After looking at the forecast for North Conway I advised them to dress quite warm:

Mostly clear, with a low around -17. Wind chill values as low as -36. Northwest wind 10 to 15 mph, with gusts as high as 25 mph.

Mount Washington Summit attempt on Friday, stay tuned!

AIARE 1 Avalanche Course 1/2/15 – 1/4/15

Yesterday wrapped up the second AIARE 1 Avalanche Course of the season. After a couple days of mixed classroom & field sessions the group was ready to plan a trip into Tuckerman Ravine. Mother Nature provided some excellent field conditions with an avalanche advisory listing wind slabs, wet slabs, and wet loose avalanches all possible, or even likely, if someone were to wander into a start zone or find that sweet spot.

Alpha group works through some trip planning before heading up the hill
Alpha group works through some trip planning before heading up the hill
Bravo group looks over some options for the day's tour
Bravo group looks over some options for the day’s tour
Two of the the students preview some terrain choices
Two of the the students preview some terrain choices
My field notes from the day
My field notes from the day

We just had one spot open up for our January 17th course. All of our other scheduled courses are either sold out and have wait lists! If you know someone searching for a course this winter let them know!

http://reservations.emsexploration.com/express/reservation/results.jsf?activityNameId=143&daysFromNow=365

Finding winter after December’s big thaw

What a great start we were off to this year for both skiing & ice climbing! Hard to believe that the ice climbing season started for many of us a month and a half ago! Apparently Santa didn’t get my letter though for instead of a few feet of powder we were all delivered many inches of rain over a very warm three days which pretty much pushed the “reset” button on our winter playground.

Hope is on the horizon for 2015 though! Arctic cold has dropped our daytime temps about 50 degrees in just the last two days! On Monday I guided two young guys from New York up a very thin Willey’s Slide in Crawford Notch. I have never been on it in such lean conditions and it was actually pretty fun, though I could have left the ice screws at home. We hugged climber’s left the whole way and got a couple half pitches of actual ice climbing towards the top. The gushing waterfall 2/3 of the way up was pretty impressive, especially when the winds kicked up and sent the water sideways!

Travis learns proper crampon & ice axe technique
Looking pretty lean
EMS Schools Guide Keith Moon instructs another group nearby
EMS Schools Guide Keith Moon instructs another group nearby
Travis & Matt nearing the top of the 800 foot slide
A 3rd EMS Schools Group starts rappelling as we near the top
A 3rd EMS Schools Group starts rappelling as we near the top

The next day Erin, Brandon, Travis, and Matt all joined me for an assault on Mount Washington. The weather forecast spoke of “coldest air of the season” and wind chills down to around -48. Sounded like it may be a challenging day on the hill, but the winds died down early enough in the day and with careful moisture management and pacing we summit-ed at about 12:40 then descended back down the Summer Lion’s Head Trail to the cars in only 2.5 hours. The entire trip was done in micro-spikes (with crampons in reserve) and a short arm-wrap rappel on the most technical step of the route.

Erin & Brandon (sorry this one is blurred guys)
Erin & Brandon (sorry this one is blurred guys)
Matt & Travis
Matt & Travis
Erin getting close to treeline
Erin getting close to treeline
Last few steps to Lion's Head
Last few steps to Lion’s Head
Great visibility!
Great visibility!
Base of the summit cone
Base of the summit cone
Looking back towards Lion's Head
Looking back towards Lion’s Head
Erin showing off a frozen face mask
Erin showing off a frozen face mask
Summit shot
Group Summit shot
Erin & Brandon
Erin & Brandon
Matt & Travis
Matt & Travis
Brief stop at Split Rock during descent
Brief stop at Split Rock during descent
iPhone Pano... click image to see whole pic
iPhone Pano… click image to see whole pic

So despite the disappointing thaw it looks like it will be a distant memory soon. Continued cold is on tap for the first few days of 2015 and snow is likely for Saturday & Sunday. That is especially welcome as our second avalanche course of the season starts Friday! So ciao 2014, you were a pretty decent year for climbing conditions. Let’s usher in some great skiing & climbing for the start of 2015!

Happy New Year & See You in the Mountains!

AIARE 1 Avalanche Course 12/19-12/21

Yesterday concluded our first AIARE 1 Avalanche Course of the season and conditions were great for such an early season course! Two EMS Schools New Paltz, NY guides and one of our North Conway guides joined 8 other aspirant back-country travelers to learn about decision making and risk management in avalanche terrain.

Beacon Range Check at the AMC Highland Center
Examining some Surface Hoar while on our Observational Outing
Do you know how this is formed and why it is important in relation to avalanche safety?
Team Orange conducts a trip planning session in the pack room of Pinkham Notch Visitor Center the morning of the tour day
Team Black & Blue checks the updated avalanche bulletin
Successfully skinning up from Hermit Lake into Tuckerman Ravine
The skier group converses at the first aid cache before entering consequential terrain to make sure they are all still on the same page and to update their observations
Team Orange is high up in the Sluice below the cliff band, you may need to zoom in to spot them
Team Black & Blue spreads out while crossing the lower center bowl
Team Orange visible just to the left of Right Gully while we make our way over towards The Chute
All smiles during our run down the Sherburne Ski Trail at the end of the day
My field notes from Day 3...
My field notes from Day 3… I wish I had better handwriting skillz

What a treat it was to be able to skin all the way into the bowl so early in the season. The Sherbi was in pretty “fast” conditions and is definitely, as I noted in my book, in need of some love. Unfortunately Santa must have thought skiers where a pretty naughty bunch this year as he’s having his friend Mother Nature deliver us a hefty dose of our least favorite precipitation, rain. Personally I would prefer coal but what can you do. Let’s hope to bring in the New Year with some copious amounts of new snow!

To the 11 engaged participants of this first avalanche course of the season, thank you for making this a fun and productive 3 days. See you in the mountains!

Mount Washington Avalanche Center issues first General Advisory’s

The Mount Washington Avalanche Center issued it’s initial General Advisory for the 2014/15 season a few days ago on December 6th. The current Winter Storm Warning has prompted an update today. Monday also saw the first reported human triggered avalanche of the season;

“A climber was descending Yale Gully when he triggered a small avalanche below him. He later triggered another small pocket at the top of the fan which took him off his feet.” -MWAC

Here is a shot one of the USFS Rangers took last Friday of Yale:

Yale Gully- photo courtesy of MWAC
Yale Gully- photo courtesy of MWAC

Not much snow up there right? Early season snow packs can be deceiving. The final words of an avalanche bulletin, even a general advisory, can carry some important clues;

“Don’t let the lack of a danger rating lull you into complacency. Traveling through small snowfields can put you into or underneath unstable snow, and all of these pockets are going to be subjected to additional load over the course of the next few days.”- Jeff Lane, Snow Ranger

UPDATE 12/10/14: Please see additional information from this incident with a first hand account of what happened here.

Have you put fresh batteries in your beacon yet? Now is a great time to get outside with you partners and run through some rescue drills. Remember it’s the people you tour with that will give you the best chance of surviving a mistake!

Also, if you have procrastinated signing up for an avalanche course you might want to do so today. Out of 7 scheduled courses we are already sold out of seats for 4. That leaves only 3 courses to chose from and it is not even Christmas yet! Go here to find out more and sign up!

See you on the mountain,

NEAlpineStart

Pre-Season Professional Development

Old man Winter has established his foothold here in the Whites. Intrepid climbers have been out sniffing out early season ice for almost a month. I got out before Thanksgiving to climb Pinnacle Gully in great early season conditions. I also grabbed my first two ski days of the 2014/15 season, opening day (Nov 9th) at Wildcat and a couple weeks later at Bretton Woods. Even with 2 days already ticked I was a bit envious of some Facebook friends Thanksgiving Day powder skiing shots but time spent down south with family was well worth it!

A different type of Thanksgiving carving
A different type of Thanksgiving carving

Today wraps up a trifecta of guide related workshops and round-tables and I wanted to share a quick recap of each.

On November 8th the 3rd Annual Eastern Snow Avalanche Workshop was held at the new venue in Bartlett, NH. Attendance was strong with over 100 snow-minded folks from recreational to professional listening in on a diverse amount of topics. If you are really bummed you missed it (and you should be if you like playing in snow), you can get quite a bit of info from the presentations thanks to a Tetons Gravity forum member taking (and sharing) extremely detailed notes of the proceedings. You can find them here.

ESAW Image

Yesterday the American Mountain Guide Association held a round table discussion at the Eastern Mountain Sports North Conway Climbing School location. You probably have heard of the AMGA at some point if you are reading this blog. Long story short, their mission is “To inspire and support a culture of American mountain craft.” It goes much deeper than that, but the gist of this gathering of 43 instructors, guides, aspiring guides, etc. was to solicit feedback on how the AMGA could better represent the Northeastern “guide” who is trying to balance the demands of seasonal work, the expense of certification, and the potential ROI “Return On Investment”. This is of particular interest to those who practice the art of guiding in a state with almost no regulation, “Live Free or Die” New Hampshire!

About to start
About to start

A significant portion of the evening was spent in 7 “break out” groups trying to answer 3 questions all related to how the AMGA can better help the Northeastern guide or guide business.

Break out focus groups presented their combined thoughts
Break out focus groups presented their combined thoughts 

Finally, today, EMS Schools had an internal guide meeting with 12 guides who operate out of Connecticut, New Paltz, NY, Lake Placid NY, and of course North Conway, NH. A new polished “Guides Manual” was distributed and covered operating protocols from accident response and AMGA endorsed terrain use guidelines to continued education and training based incentives. It provoked some positive discussion and was a solid primer for scheduled field training coming up over the next few weeks.

So all in all what does this mean? I can’t wait for the winter season to go full swing! Snow is in the forecast (1 to 3 inches this Friday, more in long range forecast), which is great, as our first avalanche course of the season is only 15 days away! Almost half of our scheduled courses for this season have already sold out! If you were thinking about taking an avalanche course this winter do not put signing up off any longer! You can see what dates are available and reserve your spot right here.

Here’s to a great Holiday Season and a rewarding winter season! See you on the mountain!

KINCOS Gloves Review

KINCOS are an amazingly affordable alternative to the high end gloves at your local specialty shop.

Photo from Kincos.com
Photo from Kincos.com

Every few years I would wince at having to purchase another pair of high end technical climbing gloves to replace the beloved pair I had blown out after countless days of mountaineering, skiing, and ice climbing. Nothing destroys quality gloves faster than rappelling, and I wasn’t sure if there was a solution. Then I discovered Kincos.

After seeing these are priced between $18-$25 on Amazon, and available at your local Lucy Hardwear store, I decided to try both popular models. What could I lose at that price?

Kinco Gloves
Kinco Gloves

First off the “Lined Grain Pigskin Leather Palm with Knit Wrist”, which is pictured on the left, have a patented “HeatKeep” lining that was warm enough to keep my partner Bob’s hands toasty for a recent 8-hour day on Mount Washington climbing Pinnacle Gully.

Bob finishing up Pitch 1 with Kincos gloves
Bob finishing up Pitch 1 with Kincos gloves, 11-20-14

Bob wore these gloves exclusively from the time we left the parking lot to picking our way across the Alpine Gardens with -20 wind chills. His hands were toasty through-out.

I like very dexterous gloves when leading ice, so I opted to wear my new Outdoor Research Alibi 2 Gloves (review forthcoming) for the technical climb, but once we topped out I donned the Kinco Ski Gloves. These kept my hands incredibly warm as we crossed the Alpine Gardens and descended down the Lion’s Head Route. Yesterday I took them skiing at Bretton Woods and confirmed they are the bees knees.

Yes, those are new skis, and yes, those will be reviewed soon too.
Yes, those are new skis, and yes, those will be reviewed soon too.

While the Ski Gloves are pre-treated with “REVIVEX waterproofing solution” I opted to bust out the Nixwak Waterproof Wax that I use on my boots & hiking shoes. Rubbing this stuff into the leather with bare hands adds an extra layer of protection, protects the leather, and brings back fond child-hood memories of trying to break in a stiff baseball glove. If you really want to waterproof the model with fabric on the back you could also use this.

Advantages: Affordable, Durable, Warm

Disadvantages: Not a “Precision Fit” but just fine for mountaineering, skiing, and seconding hard technical climbs, needs some maintenance to treat & break in.

In summary, KINCOS are an amazingly affordable alternative to high end climbing/skiing gloves. They are not however an absolute replacement. High end gloves definitely have their place, as an upcoming review for the Outdoor Research Alibi II Gloves will allude too, say stay tuned for that and thanks for reading!

You can find the lowest price on Kinco Ski Gloves on Amazon here!

New Name, New Address, New Features! NEAlpineStart is LIVE!

For years I’ve wanted to give this blog a make-over. A more creative name than… firstnamelastname at WordPress… a better Product Review Page (check out the new Guide Tested page), a connection to other great climbing websites out there (page under construction), and today I finally had the time & motivation to get it to a point where I felt I could push “publish”.

In the past this blog has mostly been a place where I could summarize days guiding and upload photos for clients to access the fun we had in the mountains. It will still be that, but will also be more focused on something every climber & skier is passionate about. Gear.

Also a “how-to-guides-tips-and-tricks” section is in the making. While tying a one-handed clove-hitch might not help you break into 5.11 it definitely looks cool.

NEAlpineStart is also now on Facebook so please give us a Like there. If you are into gear then definitely subscribe, here’s a quick list of what I’ll be reviewing over the next couple of months;

Dynafit Denali Skis

Black Diamond Dawn Patrol Pants

Black Diamond Convergent Shell Jacket

KINCOS Gloves <- so in love with these thanks to NEClimbs Review

Ortovox Avalanche Beacons, S1, S1+, Zoom

And a LOT more… so please Subscribe, Like, Share, Comment, etc… I am stoked to get this blog out there to more people who tear it up in the North East, whether on rock, ice, or snow, we’re all enjoying the ride!