Tanner took a three day mountaineering course with us a few weeks ago. You might spot him in my blog from climbing Willey’s Slide. He expressed an interest in completing a Presidential Traverse, which is quite an undertaking in winter! To prepare him for that type of a trip we started with an overnight below tree-line.
The access road was gated a mile from the trailhead, so we started our hike there.
After reaching the trailhead it was another mellow 2 miles to camp, at Shelter #1.We opted for sleeping in the three walled shelter and settled in for negative 15 degree temps...The next morning came with clearer conditions and we broke down our camp after breakfast...
Tanner got used to the weight of his pack, as evidenced by a quick hike back out to the trail head. We are planning on an overnight at or above tree-line soon, followed by a full on Presi-traverse later in the season! Stay tuned, and see you again soon Tanner!
We have scheduled 8 level 1 AIARE Courses for the season and they are off to a great start! This is my second season presenting the AIARE curriculum and the 1st two courses of the season are already behind me. We got absolutely dumped on during the 1st course, which lead to high avalanche danger in many places on the Mt. Washington, but some great skiing! If you or someone you know plans on spending time in Avalanche Terrain this season consider taking a Level 1 Avy Course to learn the important decision making skills we need to travel safely in the backcountry. You can see what courses we have left this season here;
On our second day we conducted some "snowpack observations".Shannon and her father check for "Compressive Failure" in the snowpack...On our 3rd day we ski and snowshoed up into some bigger terrain on Mt. Washington...We practiced our newly learned "Companion Rescue" skills...After pinpointing a "fake" victim we dug them out...We talked with one of the snow rangers at Hermit Lake about the differences in snow climates around the country and what makes Mt. Washington so unique...Conditions allowed us to tour up into Tuckerman Ravine to make some observations...At the end of the day we enjoyed the skiing back down the Sherburne Ski Trail to Pinkham Notch.
To each of my class participants, thanks for attending the courses! Practice your skills, enjoy the backcountry snow, and I hope to see you out touring in the near future!
While not officially a “guiding” assignment, I was honored to be invited to co-lead a special New Year’s Eve trip to the summit of Mt. Washington with the Mount Washington Observatory. As part of their “EduTrips”, a small group of weather enthusiasts would board the MWO snow-tractor for an ascent of the Mt. Washington Auto Road. Much educational content was provided by Michelle Cruz, the Director of Education for the non-profit organization (and also my fiancee), and a gourmet 9 course dinner was provided by MWO volunteers, supporters, and gourmet chefs, Ed O’Malley and John Bouhs.
The day dawned with some promising weather for the ascent...In a staging room at the base of the Auto Road we checked equipment and clothing...About 5 miles and 3000 feet up we exited the Cat to take in the view. I could get use to getting a ride up the mountain in winter!After arriving at the summit building we hiked a short distance to the actual geological summit for a photo...After warming ourselves in the summit buildings and having a bite to eat Michelle gave us a tour of the various un-inhabited (in the winter) summit buildings and some of the weather collection devices scattered there about...
We then went up in the observation tower, where I took a short video of the experience! Video posting TBD.
After our outdoor activities we retired to the warmth of the OBS living quarters where Michelle presented a program on the history of the Observatory...
Close to midnight, and after the most amazing 9 course meal I have ever had, the celebration began.
Michelle "serving" the champagne...The next morning we posed for a goodbye shot...
All in all it was a terrific New Year’s. We watched the ball drop on TV in Times Square, where millions of people where in attendance. On the summit of the highest peak in the Northeast 15 people rang in 2010 in style. I was glad to be one of them.
Justin and Kevin had both taken previous Mountaineering Courses with us so they returned to add to their skills, with ambitions of climbing Mt. Washington and perhaps Rainier in the not to distant future.
We geared up on the auto road of Cathedral Ledge, with a handful of great climbs only a few minutes from the car...We refreshed some of our lower angle climbing skills...Justin prepares to climb and Kevin mans the belay...We talked about and practiced placing ice screws...Anchored in about 60 feet up our first climb...Nearing the top of the climb Kevin takes a swing...
Justin rappels down the steeper North End Pillars...Kevin follows...With a top-rope in place we worked on our steeper ice technique...Justin looking for the next move...The top of the climb!
Thanks for returning to the EMS Climbing School! You guys are both on your way to reaching your climbing goals, and I hope I can be part of them again!
For my first trip up the rock pile this season I got to climb with Kel, Carl, and Jerome. These life-long friends were a fun group to hike with. With moderate winds and “normal” visibility we made it to the top and back to the car with a bit of daylight left, and some sore muscles.
After a 2 mile warm up hike we put crampons on at the base of the steeps...
After breaking tree-line we climbed towards the "Lion's Head"...On the summit cone we had typical visibility!First summit photo of the season!
Thank you guys (and gal) for a great day on the hill! Your jokes were funny, teamwork top-notch, and positive energy contagious. Hope to see you all back for some rock climbing next summer!
For my 1st official guiding day of the season I had the privilege of taking Ben, Dan, and Tanner on their 1st multi-pitch winter climbing experience. These three guys were taking our very popular 3-Day Accelerated Mountaineering Program, and this was Day 2 of their trip.
We drove up Route 302 to Crawford Notch, and after a warm-up hike reached the base of Willey’s Slide, a 700 foot high ice climb that is great for learning some multi-pitch techniques, and was named after the tragic event in 1826 that claimed the Willey Family (hence the phrase “A Case of the Willey’s.”
Dan and Ben warming up on the approach...Looking up our intended climb... a couple climbers were about 200 feet up already...
Dan tops out the climb, with the road and another parties backpacks FAR below...
Great first day of the season for me, and I heard you guys had a good time on Mt. Washington the following day! Thanks for joining us for some winter adventure and hope to see you all back again. I know I’ll see you again Tanner!
Well it’s been awhile since I have posted due to it being the “off season” for guide work. Last week I attended an AIARE Avalanche Instructor’s Refresher Course. This will be my 3rd season teaching Level 1 AIARE courses and I must say I am excited about it! I am quickly becoming more and more intrigued by this “snow science” and am happy to be able to pass on what knowledge I can through the excellent course curriculum from AIARE. If you haven’t taken an avalanche course yet, or it’s been awhile, this may be the season to do it!
Eric and Lori got up at 2AM to make the drive from New York City all the way to the White Mountains for their 1st “trad” climbing experience. Both were pretty strong boulderers and had some indoor experience. We cruised up Thin Air in the morning and then spent some time at the North End of Cathedral.
Eric on the pitch 2 traverse of Thin Air...Looking down pitch 3 of Thin Air...Lori on the 4th pitch of Thin Air...
It was a good day of climbing with you both! Hope you had fun at Rumney the following day!
Kellen and his father Ron made the short trip from Gorham, ME to try rock climbing today. They could not have picked a better day to be out in the White Mountains! After endless weeks of rain we have been blessed with some great sunshine and dry weather! Since it was supposed to a be a warm day we headed for Square Ledge in Pinkham Notch. Other than a few hikers and one intriguing musician we had the cliff to ourselves! No bugs, no crowds, no humidity… couldn’t get much better than that! We climbed the West Face, The Chimney, and finished on The Brain. It seemed everyone had a good time and I certainly hope to see Ron and Kellen again… their enthusiasm for a new adventure is contagious!
Enjoy the slideshow, and if you’ve followed my blog I apologize for the repeat use of this Cold Play song… but it seems to fit these slideshows pretty well. I am open to some instrumental suggestions!
Don’t forget to select “HD” and full screen for better viewing! HD may not be available for 15 minutes.
Tom and his daughter decided to try some rock climbing while on vacation in the White Mountains. They tried ice climbing last year with us at our New Paltz, NY location and were eager for more. Mom came along to watch our progress but preferred the flat ground!
Whitehorse Ledge in North Conway is about 900 feet tall...Mom keeps an eye on us while we gear up...Dad and Daughter at the 1st pitch belay...Laura finding purchase on the slabs...Rigged to rappel back down...Laura walking up "Relic Hunter", 5.7 at the Echo Roof area...Lay-backing up Beelzebub corner... a bit harder now that a block is missing......Tom demonstrates a no-hands rest...A new sport combining rock climbing with tree climbing!
Fun time climbing with you guys, and perfect weather to boot! Thanks for coming up from Jersey for some climbing. Perhaps we’ll see you this winter for some ice climbing on Laura’s birthday!
